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Travel Tips on 
Travel Trips 

Containing Suggestions for Real 
or Imaginary Journeys 

Compiled by 

ADELAIDE M. WOOD 

and 

LILIAN S. RUDDICIv 

for 

The Travelogue Bureau 


1914 

THE TRAVELOGUE BUREAU 

CHICAGO 


Q i5o 




MAY -8 1914 


* i 

Copyright: 1914 : The Travelogue Bureau 

& Cl, AS 7 40.1 (j 


TABLE OF CONTENTS 


PAGE 

General Suggestions 5 

Into Morocco, the Land of Yesterday 6 

A Pilgrimage to Fez, the Metropolis of the Moors 8 

Through the Heart of the Moorish Empire 9 

A Little Journey to the Cities of the Barbary Coast. . 10 
Oases of tfie Algerian Sahara, a Trip to the '‘Garden of 

Allah” 12 

Southern Spain, Land of the Hidalgo and the Don. ... 13 

To tfie Olympian Games in Athens 15 

Grecian Tourneys by Caravan Around tfie Historic Pelo- 

ms 

PONNESUS l6 

The Wonders of Thessaly, the Country of the Meteora 18 

Egypt, the Land of the Pyramids and the Sphinx 19 

To Southern Italy, the Land of Sunshine and Song. ... 21 

Through Switzerland, the Playground of Europe 23 

Round About Paris, or a Trip to the Ouaint Corners of 

the French Capital 2=; 

A Pilgrimage to Oberammergau, the Passion Play Vil- 
lage 27 

Cycling Through Corsica, the Land of the Vendetta. . 28 
A Trip to London, the Metropolis of the World 29 

SlGFITSEEING IN PARIS, THE ClTY MAGNIFICENT 30 

Berlin, the City of the Kaiser 31 

Norway, the Land of the Midnight Sun 33 

Touring Sweden, Where the Boats "Go Up Hill” 34 

A Journey to Denmark, the Island Kingdom 36 

To St. Petersburg, the Imperial City of Russia 37 

To Moscow, the Magnificent City of the Muscovites. . 39 
Trans-Siberian Railway, Through a Land of Promise. . 40 
A Trip Down the Amur, the Great Gateway to the 

Pacific 4 2 

A Sojourn in Peking, the Capital of China 43 

The Forbidden City, or a Visit to the Home of “Tfie Son 
of Heaven" 45 


TABLE OF CONTENTS 


PAGE 


An Excursion to Seoul, the Metropolis of the “Land of 

the Morning Calm” 46 

A Jaunt Into the Interior of Japan, from Nikko to the 

Rapids of the Tenryugawa 47 

Visiting the Cities of Japan, from Tokyo to the Sacred 

Islands of the Inland Sea 48 

Touring the Hawaiian Islands, the Paradise of the 

Pacific 50 

A Trip to the Edge of China 52 

A Visit to Manila, the Capital of the Tropical Far East 54 
Touring the Yellowstone National Park, the Wonder- 
land of America 55 

An Excursion to the Grand Canyon of Arizona, the Acme 

of Sublimity 57 

A Visit to Moki Land, the Home of the Cliff Dwellers 
of Arizona 58 


FOREWORD 


HE reader following the itinerary of the Burton Holmes 
Travelogues will enjoy many delightful surprises as he 
journeys northward from the Mediterranean to Norway, tours 
Russia from the Baltic to the Pacific, makes a number of stops 
on his trip south to the Philippines, and crosses the broad Pacific 
to some of the wonder-spots of America. Because of these 
changes in clime and scene, many questions as to general prepa- 
ration for travel will naturally arise, and it is the purpose of this 
little booklet, with which Mr. Holmes has no editorial connection, 
to furnish the reader with a few suggestions as to the countries 
and places of interest visited in the Burton Holmes Travelogues. 

The information for “Travel Tips on Travel Trips" has been 
furnished by Adelaide M. Wood, who has spent many years in 
actual travel and the study of travel information; the booklet has 
been planned and edited by Lilian S. Ruddick. We believe that 
the reader, as well as the traveler, will find much of pleasing 
interest and lasting value in the offered suggestions. 

THE PUBLISHERS. 

























. 

















































































































































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TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


General Suggestions 

What to Take with You. Some general suggestions as to the 
preparation for an “Around the World" journey may prove of 
interest. The traveler will wish to take just as little as pos- 
sible, because foreign countries seldom have a free checking sys- 
tem, and all baggage is therefore an extra expense. A small 
steamer trunk will slip under the berth on the steamer, and the 
baggage charge will not be excessive on the continental trains. 
A man will find a heavy suit very advisable, for it is cold at sea, 
even in the summer. A cravenette, a coat sweater, bathrobe and 
slippers, a second suit of dark material, and a tuxedo — although 
the latter may be eliminated — should be available. Negligee 
shirts of flannel or silk with soft collars and cuffs, and a cap 
that will stay on are a great comfort. Include two pairs of easy, 
well-fitting shoes and only enough linen and other items to last 
en route, as the wardrobe can be added to quite cheaply in most 
of the countries visited. A woman should have a couple of 
tailored suits, one that will withstand all kinds of weather, and 
the other of some light-weight material ; a sweater, cap and 
gloves ; a heavy veil ; an ulster ; kimono ; a one-piece dress of 
non-crushable material ; several plain, and at least two dressy 
shirt-waists ; a smart but simply trimmed hat, and the customary 
toilet and dress accessories. Little jewelry and aluminum or 
celluloid toilet articles instead of silver will be found advisable. 
Steamer rugs may be rented with the chair, from the deck 
steward, and need not be carried. 

Routes and Tickets. The routes to the various parts of the 
earth are numerous, and each has its advantages. Reliable infor- 
mation may be had from the railroad and steamship companies. 
In foreign countries there are usually three classes of railway 
travel — first, second and third, the second-class being quite gen- 


6 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


erally patronized by foreigners. Arrangements should be made 
long enough in advance to assure the traveler the most desir- 
able accommodations. On board ship the nearer the center 
of the vessel your stateroom is, the less you will feel its motion. 
Outside rooms with windows or ports are lighter and better 
ventilated. 

Baggage. The average amount of baggage allowed on most 
steamship lines is 300 pounds, and all pieces should be tagged or 
labeled with the name of passenger, steamer, date of sailing, 
number of stateroom and whether “wanted" or “not wanted’' in 
stateroom. Trunks not over thirteen inches high, two and a half 
feet wide and four feet long will fit under the berths. In a few 
of the foreign countries baggage is carried free to a limited 
number of pounds, but as a rule the traveler will pay extra for 
everv bit of baggage that is not carried in the hands. The 
baggage rates are generally low, except off the “beaten path.” 

Tips. On shipboard the minimum fee to the table steward is 
$2.50, or ten shillings ; also to the stateroom steward. The deck 
steward and the stewardess will expect a minimum fee of $1.00, 
or four shillings. On the continent it is generally safe to adhere 
to the 10% ratio — 10% of the hotel bill, divided among those 
who serve you. Do not be inveigled into tipping any who have 
not in some way earned it. To guard the traveler who does 
not speak a foreign language from any extortion, various tourist 
companies abroad issue hotel coupons which are accepted as 
cash whenever presented at the places mentioned in these com- 
panies’ lists. 

Into Morocco, the Land of Yesterday 

In this twentieth century we find few countries where 
men have not changed their social, political and economic con- 
ditions to some degree of enterprise and progress. But in the 
Moors we see a people still embalmed in the superstition and 
restrictions of Islam as deeply as it was in 700 a.d. The intensity 
of their fanaticism is so great that the life of a Christian or a 
Jew is considered unsafe in some parts of the country. Their 
manners and customs remain much as they were a thousand 
years ago. This stagnation has been the reason for the lack 
of development of Morocco's natural resources. Its vast natural 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


7 


resources were left almost untouched, its fertile soil lay fallow, 
and its industries were neglected. The Moors remained mediae- 
val because of their observance of the tenets of Mohammed. They 
even hold themselves somewhat aloof from other Mohammedan 
nations, because they are convinced that theirs is the only true 
interpretation of their prophet’s religion. 

In the last few years, however, Morocco, the land of the 
Moors, has been outwardly changing. Since the beginning of 
French dominion there has been much progress in the coast 
towns. There is but one regrettable feature of this civilizing 
process, that civilization means modernization and the destruction 
of those influences which combined to make Morocco unique 
among modern nations. The picturesqueness of barbarism must 
yield to the comfort and safety of civilization. 

Tangier. Tangier is the commercial city of Morocco. Here 
is established the head office of the Moroccan State Bank. As 
this city is easily reached by steamer from Gibraltar it is usually 
the only part of Morocco seen by the traveler with limited time 
at his command. It is quite cosmopolitan in character, and it 
is the place of exile, political or social, of many people who find 
its policy of “no questions asked” a comfortable one. Its streets 
and markets are fascinating and charm the traveler from other 
lands by their unusual features. 

Language. The language of the Moors is Berber, several 
dialects being used. On the plains and coast of Morocco Arabic 
is generally spoken. Of late years, since tourists have included 
Morocco in their itinerary, a mixture of many tongues is heard 
in the coast towns. 

Transportation. Steamship service is reasonably frequent 
between Tangier and the other ports of the world, though in 
many instances transhipment at Gibraltar is necessary. There are 
practically no railroads. A railroad twenty-four miles long was 
laid from Casablanca to Ber Reshid, and another short railroad 
connects the town of Melilla with some neighboring mines. These 
are of no benefit to tourists. The interior of the country remains 
practically as it was a thousand years ago. Goods are trans- 
ported by means of caravans, and there are not even the ordinary 
rest stations or caravansaries of other eastern countries to be 
found. Travelers have therefore to carry their own tents, food 
and any other conveniences desired — all goods to be carried on 


8 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


the backs of pack animals. No roads and few bridges make 
progress through this “land of yesterday” somewhat difficult. In 
the mountainous regions a guard is necessary, as the interior is 
unsafe for foreigners. 

Passports. It is advisable for travelers to be provided with 
passports, which are always valuable for the purpose of identifica- 
tion and save their possessors from many petty annoyances. 
They are necessary in Morocco for traveling inland or for em- 
barking on board French steamers for Oran. Passports should 
be vised by the consuls of the countries to be visited. 

Hotels. For the first visit to this country it is wisest to 
patronize the hotels under European management. The food is 
usually prepared by a French chef, but native dishes can be 
obtained. It is necessary to be very careful in regard to the use 
of drinking water. The safest plan is to drink only the bottled 
waters. 

A Pilgrimage to Fez, the Metropolis of the Moors 

Arrangements. To anyone contemplating a trip into the 
interior of Morocco, a simple solution of the problem of trans- 
portation is to place the whole matter of arrangement in charge 
of a responsible guide. This man should be recommended by the 
manager of the hotel or a reliable tourist agency. He will provide 
everything necessary for the journey, mules for the traveler and 
his baggage, tents, food and the necessary servants. The guide 
will be prepared to meet every possible contingency, and will 
relieve the traveler of manv troubles. 

j 

Compensation. The price asked for service, if the bargain 
is made with a native, will be at least twice the sum finally agreed 
upon. If arrangements are made with a tourist agency of the 
best standing, the amount charged will be much lower. 

Difficulties. The tourist should remember the intense fanati- 
cism prevalent in Mohammedan countries, especially in Morocco, 
and avoid any action which will give cause for resentment on the 
part of the native. A little observation and consideration for 
the customs of the country visited will carry one through any 
difficult situation. 

Fez. This city, capital of the Moroccan Empire, is the prin- 
cipal distributing center of the country for European products. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


9 


It is the starting point of caravans going south into the interior 
of Africa. The city dates from the eighth century and is a strong- 
hold of Islam. Articles of leather, rugs, silk, shawls and the 
“Fez” caps, or tarbush, worn by all Mohammedans, are here 
'nade. 

Passports. In a country like Morocco the traveler will need 
his passport and any letters of introduction which he may be 
fortunate enough to secure. To travel into the interior it is 
necessary to secure special permission, and arrangements for the 
trip must be made through a Consul. 

Clothing. The clothing for the trip to Fez should be of the 
simplest description. The weather is generally warm and sunny, 
and while clothes of light weight are necessary, laundering facili- 
ties are absolutely lacking; hence elaborate gowns are sadly out 
of place. It is a good plan to carry a quantity of worn under- 
wear or lingerie and discard it when it is soiled. New outfits 
can be obtained from the fascinating shops upon the return to 
the coast towns. The traveler should remember that Fez is in 
the same latitude as Richmond, Virginia. During the hot season, 
white clothing is very cool and comfortable. The pith helmet, 
worn everywhere in tropical countries, is frequently seen in 
Morocco. A white umbrella with a green lining is a great pro- 
tection against the sun's heat. 

Through the Heart of the Moorish Empire 

An Adventurous Journey. For the adventurous one search- 
ing for the realization of his youthful dreams of the magnificence 
of the Moors, a journey through Morocco will be a mingling 
of delight and disillusionment. The greatest danger to the 
traveler is the intense hatred of the Moslem for the Christian. 
Caution should be observed to avoid unnecessary antagonism. 

I n conveniences. The traveler must be prepared for the lack 
of all comforts. If he can endure deprivations with a smile or 
a shrug, and simply say with the Moor — “It is written,” and take 
life as it comes to him day by day, he is indeed a good comrade 
and a good traveler. 

Roads. There are no roads or canals in Morocco, and no 
railroads of any convenience to the traveler. There are only 
trails for the caravans which traverse the country. Since the 


10 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


occupation of northern Africa by the French, some effort is being 
made to build roads between Fez and the seaports, but the great 
obstacle is the Mohammedan prejudice against innovations. 

Accommodations. The traveler who plans a trip into the 
interior of Morocco is a dweller in his own tent. It is well, 
however, to claim the hospitality of the tribesmen met on the 
way, thus insuring the protection of the different kaids, whose 
sacred duty it is to guard the traveler against harm. 

Brigandage. The interior of Morocco is infested with roving 
bands of thieves, who take their toll of the villages, caravans, 
and the unprotected traveler. Unless accompanied by a guard 
the traveler will almost certainly suffer from their depredations. 

Currency. The great variety of currency used in Morocco 
makes it necessary for the traveler to have some knowledge of 
the monies of all nations as well as the “hassani,” or Moorish 
money. The rate of exchange fluctuates daily and sometimes 
hourly, but the American and English gold and the American 
dollar is always at a premium. 

Holidays. There are three Sabbaths in Morocco, the Moham- 
medan on Friday, the Jewish on Saturday, and the Christian on 
Sunday. Consequently, some of the shops of the towns, as they 
happen to belong to the respective followers of these three 
religions, are closed on three days of the week ; but there is no 
day on which all the shops are closed and business at a standstill. 

A Little Journey to the Cities of the Barbary Coast 

Algiers. To the tourist who has time to linger in his sight- 
seeing, Algiers will perhaps offer the greatest inducement. The 
climate is perfect, the situation of the city beautiful, and the city 
itself so modernized that every comfort is obtainable. 

Hotels. The hotels are numerous and excellent, with a 
moderate tariff, and are usually under the management of 
Europeans. They are furnished with all the conveniences. Small 
villas can be rented by those who are tempted to dwell a while in 
this lovely place. 

Bazaars. These are easily the objects of greatest attraction 
to the tourist. The wares displayed for sale fairly charm the 
money out of the pocket. The price asked for an article is 
usually two or three times the amount finally accepted. To many, 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


11 


not the least part of the pleasure in buying is in the bargaining. 

Amusements. As Algiers is a miniature Paris, the social life 
of the city is distinguished by its gayety and by its cosmopolitan 
character. Letters of introduction are necessary for the stranger 
who desires recognition from the social colony of Algiers. 

Points of Interest. The city of Algiers, delightful as it may 
be, witll not satisfy the traveler who wishes to know more inti- 
mately the Barbary Coast. A westward trip to Oran may be 
planned, with stops at the Hammam Rirha hot springs, where 
the tourist will find an excellent hotel, and on to Tlemqen, which 
was at one time the proud capital of the Moorish kingdom. 

An eastward trip of unusual interest for scenery and tradition 
is to the Kabyle Mountains, about seventy miles east of Algiers. 
The trip to the foothills can be made by rail and stage to Fort 
National. In these mountains will be found the people who 
inhabited Algeria at the dawn of history. From Fort National, 
a military outpost, in the confines of which a little city has arisen, 
trips into the interior of this mountainous district, may be ar- 
ranged. 

Another eastward trip, which is about a day’s ride by rail 
from Algiers, is to Constantine, the Wonder-City, perched upon 
the cliffs that rise a thousand feet above the level of the plain. 

Railroads. The French have built wonderful highways 
through Algeria. They have created a railroad system traversing 
the northern part of the country, from the western boundary as 
far east as Tunis, and in addition are building southward into the 
desert. The railroads of Algeria are not yet equal to those of 
Europe, but they enable the tourist to travel in the manner to 
which he is accustomed, instead of by the primitive and slower 
methods of the native. 

Language. The natives are rapidly acquiring the French 
language. The shop-keepers are clever linguists who can drive a 
bargain in almost any tongue. 

Native Prejudice. It is well to call the attention of the traveler 
to the necessity of extreme caution in visiting the remoter and 
less frequented portions of Algeria, as hostility toward the 
Christian prevails here as elsewhere in Mohammedan countries. 
Women should not go unattended except on the most traveled 
streets of the cities, and then only in daylight. In visiting the 
Mosques the traveler is usually required to remove his shoes 


12 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


before entering, but in some of the Mosques the visitor is pro- 
vided with large yellow slippers, which are to be tied on over 
the shoes. A small fee should he given to the man who ties 
them on, and also to the guide. Oftentimes the tender of a piece 
of silver to the doorkeeper ;proves most effectual in obtaining 
permission to enter. 

Money. The table below summarizes the coinage of Algeria, 
which is the same as that of France, and gives the equivalent 
values in United States money at the rate at $0,193 for one franc. 
It is simpler for the traveler mentally to consider the value of a 
franc $0.20; two francs $0.40; five francs $1.00. The monetary 
unit is the franc of 100 centimes. 


Copper Coins 

Silver Coins 

Gold Coins 

Paper 

Money 

Sou. or 5 c . . $0 . 00965 

50c. 

$0.0965 

5 f. 

$0,965 

50 f. 

$ 9.65 


1 f. 

•193 

10 f. 

i -93 

100 f. 

19.30 

2 sous or ioc .0193 

2 f. 

.386 

20 f. 

3-86 

500 f. 

96.50 


5 f. 

■96s 



1000 f. 

193.00 


Oases of the Algerian Sahara, a Trip to the “Garden 

of Allah” 

The Sahara. The desert has much the same charm for the 
traveler as the sea. It has long been the theme of song and 
story, and to see it is like looking upon the familiar face of a 
friend. He who has been once under the fascination of these 
wastes of shifting sand can never lose the desire to return. 

Transportation. Railroads and excellent highways take the 
traveler into the desert. But unless he has the added pleasure of 
a ride upon a real “ship of the desert/' the camel, he will feel 
defrauded of some of his impressions. The manner of mounting 
is somewhat trying to the novice. One easily gets into the saddle 
while the animal is kneeling, but when it rises complainingly to 
its feet the rider is thrown backward and then forward and must 
cling tightly to the high pommel to keep from making an igno- 
minious descent. The ground seems very far away, and the 
motion almost unendurable ; but it is possible to ride very com- 
fortably if the body is relaxed and allowed to yield to the swing- 
ing stride of the animal. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


13 


Protection from the San . In long rides under the African 
sun it is imperative that sufficient protection be given the head, 
A voluminous dust cloak, dark glasses and a heavy veil are 
necessary. Cold cream as a cleanser for the face is suggested, 
as water is always hard to obtain and the opportunities for its 
use are few. 

Points of Interest. The traveler to the Algerian Sahara will 
find that through the perseverance of the French engineers a road 
has been perfected through the defile which pierces the chain 
of the Atlas mountains, and the glorious pages of Nature as 
revealed in the trip through the Gorges of Chabet may now be 
enjoyed without danger or discomfort. This trip may be taken 
overland by stage from Bougie, a port on the coast of Barbary, 
or by railroad. 

Beyond the gorge are the ruins of Timgad, the African 
Pompeii, and a little further on the borderland town of Biskra, 
“The Mecca of the Moslem and Christian nomad.” Before leav- 
ing Bougie travelers who desire to penetrate the desert and visit 
some of the interesting oases should make careful inquiries as 
to placing all arrangements for the desert trip in the hands of a 
reliable guide, recommended by the hotel or a tourist agency, as 
the guide will provide the necessary equipment and will be ready 
for every emergency. 

Southern Spain, Land of the Hidalgo and the Don 

Gibraltar. This town of about 20,000 is the port through 
which the ocean traveler enters southern Spain. The Rock, as 
the English proudly term Gibraltar, guards the entrance way to 
the Mediterranean and the lands beyond, and in ancient time was 
one of the two rocks known as the pillars of Hercules. The town 
has a motley population of Spaniards, Italians and Jews, beside a 
garrison of five thousand English soldiers. Cabs are always 
stationed in the space just beyond the custom house. The cab 
tariff is moderate and many of the cabmen speak a little English. 
After a short drive about the city, visiting the Alameda Gardens 
and passing other points of interest, the tourist should go to the 
entrance to the lower galleries of the fortress. From this point 
the visitor must proceed on foot. Cameras must be left at the 
guard house. These remarkable galleries were cut through solid 


14 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


rock by the different owners of this mighty fortress, and through 
the apertures made for the cannon, and screened on the outside 
hy shrubs and vines, wonderful views of the harbor and the 
lower rock can be obtained. The cannon guarding these lower 
galleries are old. The modern and effectual weapons of warfare 
are higher up and are not accessible to visitors. 

Shops. The shops of Gibraltar are excellent. Beautiful laces, 
shawls, embroideries and articles of sandalwood and Toledo work 
can here be purchased for very little. It is not always advisable 
to pay the first price asked for an article, as a little bargaining 
may bring a substantial reduction. The merchants invariably 
speak English. 

Landing and Embarkation Fees. The expenses of landing, 
and in some cases of embarking, are borne by the passenger. 
Various tourist companies issue tickets for this purpose, and they 
prove a great convenience to the traveler. They provide at a 
very low rate for the landing or the embarkation of the pas- 
senger, with a reasonable amount of baggage. 

Passports. It is advisable for travelers to be provided with 
passports. The vise of a Spanish consul is not necessary, but 
will be found useful in traveling in provincial towns and country 
districts, as the tourist often needs some means of identification. 

Customs. It is necessary for passengers to be present at the 
examination of their baggage and hand their keys to the inspect- 
ing officer, and it well pays to be civil and obliging. In landing at 
Gibraltar it is to be remembered that tobacco and wines are 
dutiable, also preserved fruits or any article containing sugar. 

Railroads. Leaving Gibraltar the tourist crosses the bay to 
Algeciras, Spain, where the Spanish railway has its terminus. 
Here he boards the train for the interesting points in southern 
Spain, amongst which should be included a visit to Ronda, the 
cliff-perched and beautifully picturesque city of this land of 
sunshine ; Seville with its wonderful old Cathedral and Giralda 
Tower, its Plaza de Torros, where the famous bull fights may 
be witnessed at certain seasons, its great tobacco industry and 
interesting shops, and Granada with its visions of oriental splen- 
dor and its famous old Moorish palace, the Alhambra. 

Baggage. Baggage to the amount of 66 pounds is carried 
free on railroads in Spain. A passenger cannot claim more 
room for his hand baggage than is comprised in the space under 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


15 


his seat or in the netting over his head. All baggage should be of 
such a character that it can be quickly and easily opened for 
customs’ inspection. Insurance on all luggage is strongly recom- 
mended. This covers all risks of loss while traveling by land or 
sea, including loss by fire or theft, and while stopping at hotels. 
The rates are very low and the possession of insurance a pro- 
tection. 

Money of Spain. English money is used in Gibraltar, but 
across the frontier only Spanish money is taken. The bronze 5 
and 10 centesimos nearly equal in value 1 and 2 cents American 
money. The silver pieces are the 50 centesimos, about 9 cents ; 
the peseta, 19 cents, and the 4 peseta-piece, equal to 76 cents. 
In gold there are the 20 peseta, value $3.84; and the 23 peseta 
worth $4.80. 

To the Olympian Games in Athens 

On the Way. It is necessary to know something of Italy as 
well as Greece in following the Travelogue itinerary to the 
Olympian Games, as the traveler will land in Naples and embark 
at Brindisi. 

Customs. New wearing apparel, silk, lace, embroideries, tea, 
tobacco, liqueurs, perfumery, and sweetmeats are dutiable in 
Italy. If the traveler is courteous and obliging, little difficulty 
will be had in passing the articles purchased for personal use. 

Passports. Travelers are liable to be called upon at any time 
to establish their identity, and in claiming mail or registered bag- 
gage a passport is frequently necessary. 

Railways. There is a choice of routes from Naples to Brindisi. 
One route starts south from Naples, through Pompeii and 
Salerno, giving through service to Brindisi, a journey of 240 
miles. The other route takes the traveler northeast through 
Caserta, Benevento, and Foggia to Brindisi, a distance of 270 
miles. No baggage is carried free of charge on the railways in 

Italv. 

•/ 

Postal Arrangements. Mail directed in the care of a reliable 
tourist agency or a bank will insure its receipt. Travelers are 
advised to see that letters or parcels sent by them are weighed 
and properly stamped. Mail matter not fully prepaid is subject 
to an extra charge above the normal rate. 


16 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


From Italy to Greece. From Brindisi to Patras, a distance of 
251 miles, the traveler may travel very comfortably by one of 
several lines making weekly sailings. The boats are electric 
lighted and furnished with two-, three- and four-berth cabins. 
The train for Athens awaits the arrival of the boat at Patras, on 
the Gulf of Corinth. 

Hotels in Greece . A distinct understanding must be had of 
the bargain made with the hotel keeper as to the price to be paid 
for rooms and meals. Overcharges are frequent and only those 
familiar with the language will succeed in reducing bills to proper 
proportions. 

Precaution. Greece, like many of the European countries, is 
infested with fleas, as well as other varieties of vermin, and a 
package of insect powder should be included among the articles 
carried. 

Clothing. The difference in temperature between sunshine and 
shade is very marked even in the winter time. A warm wrap 
is quite necessary when sitting out of doors in boat or carriage, or 
in the evening. Strong boots should be included for the rough 
walking. Dark glasses are advisable and may be purchased much 
more cheaply on the continent than in Greece. A wide brimmed 
hat with a scarf or “puggaree” will protect the head and neck 
from the intense heat of the sun. 

Olympian Games. The original Athenian Stadium was laid 
out 330 years before Christ. About 500 years later a Roman 
citizen erected a stadium of marble, and in 1896 this was restored 
according to the ancient plans. Here were held the first of the 
modern Olympian Games. Past the entrance runs the road from 
Marathon. From the upper tiers of the Stadium may be seen 
the Bay of Salamis and the Acropolis of old Athens. 

Grecian Journeys by Caravan Around the Historic 

Peloponnesus 

Piraeus. Piraeus, the port of Athens, is five and one-half 
miles from Athens, with frequent train service between the two 
points. 

Boats. In hiring small boats for short trips about the harbor, 
the tariff must be agreed upon before starting, otherwise an 
exorbitant fee may be levied en route. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


17 


Canal of Corinth. This canal extends between Posidonia on 
the Gulf of Corinth and Isthmia on the Aegean Gulf. It is 
20,000 feet long, 26 feet deep, and about 70 feet broad. It is 
crossed by one railway bridge 14 1 feet above the surface of the 
canal. The canal being fitted with electric light is navigable by 
night as well as by day. The average passage is made in thirty 
minutes. 

Railways of Greece. There are about a thousand miles of 
railway open to traffic. The cars are fairly comfortable and are 
first- and second-class. Greek railway time is thirty-five minutes 
in advance of Central Europe railway time. No general time- 
table is furnished. A list of trains may be obtained at the rail- 
road stations. Travel by railroad is supplemented by carriages 
and the mule trains which are used for the mountain trails. 
Arrangements for journeys off the lines of railways should be 
made with an accredited guide who will assume all responsibility. 

Passports in Greece. There are no special regulations in force 
regarding passports except for persons entering the country by 
way of the land frontier. A properly vised passport is invariably 
a means of convenience and safety, and the traveler will find it 
advisable to carry one. 

Route to Olympia. There is a choice of routes from Athens 
to Olympia. The first takes the traveler from Athens to Patras, 
then south from Patras to Olympia; the second from Athens 
south through Nauplia to Kalamata, thence north to Olympia. 

Greek Calendar. The Greek calendar or Old Style is thirteen 
days later than the New Style calendar; for example, January 1 
in the Greek calendar is January 14 in the New Style. 

Money. The monetary unit is the drachma of 100 lepta. 
The circulating medium of Greece consists principally of paper. 
Notes are issued for 5, 10, 25, 100 drachma and upwards. Copper 
coins are the 5 and 10 lepta; nickel coins are 5, 10, and 20. The 
rate of exchange varies greatly, but the drachma, like the French 
franc, is worth approximately $0,193 in United States or Canadian 
gold. English gold is always at premium at the banks. 

Cameras. There is no difficulty in regard to photographing 
in Italy or Greece, providing the camera is not used in the 
vicinity of fortifications. Films are more convenient to carry 
than plates and the tourist will find places in almost every town 
of any size where new films can be purchased and the exposed 


18 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


ones developed. It is best to buy a special film that is prepared 
for use in warm climates. 

The Wonders of Thessaly, the Country of the 

Meteora 

Steamships. Volo, the chief port of Thessaly, is reached by 
the ships of the Hellenic Steam Navigation John MacDowall line, 
sailing at stated intervals from Piraeus. The voyage lasts about 
twenty-four hours. 

Railways. The journey from Volo to Kalabaka, a distance of 
ioi miles, is made by rail. Kalabaka is the point from which 
the traveler proceeds by caravan to the ancient monasteries of the 
heights. It is advisable to place the management of trips of this 
nature in the hands of a reliable guide and allow him to take 
all responsibility for the arrangements. 

Velestino. This is a little town, of about 1,600 people, on the 
site of the ancient Pherae, where tradition says that Apollo 
tended the flocks of King Admetus. The tourist must change 
cars at Velestino for Trikkala and Kalabaka. 

Duties of the Guide. The agreement between the traveler and 
the guide who is to conduct him into the interior of the country 
is called a “symphonHC This agreement should be made with an 
appearance of leisurely indifference on the part of the traveler. 
Contracts formally drawn up and signed by both parties are 
sometimes used, but if the guide is well recommended verbal 
arrangements generally prove just as satisfactory. The price 
averages from forty to fifty francs a day for each member of 
the party. The duties of the guide begin when the party leaves 
the hotel, and end upon the return, or the arrival at an agreed 
destination. The guide pays all railway, steamboat or carriage 
fares, hires the saddle and pack horses, provides all meals, secures 
accommodation for the night, and is responsible for the comfort 
of the persons under his care. In case of a journey demanding 
such service, he must provide a good mattress and suitable bed- 
clothing 'for each member of the party. In the event of the 
traveler ending his tour at a distance from the home of the 
courier no additional compensation is necessary. A small gra- 
tuity, however, is generally added. Half the sum agreed upon is 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


19 


customarily paid in advance to enable the guide to purchase food 
and supplies. The other half .should be retained until the com- 
pletion of the journey. 

The Monasteries. A visit to the most important monasteries 
of the Meteora may be made in about five hours. At the Hagios 
Stephanos, accommodation for the night may he had. Food is 
supplied the traveler unasked, hut compensation should he offered 
and is invariably accepted. 

Vale of Tempo. This historic spot lies at some distance by 
carriage from the railway terminal Larissa, which is easily ac- 
cessible by rail from Volo, a distance of thirty-eight miles. 

Egypt, the Land of the Pyramids and the Sphinx 

The Ports of Egypt. The traveler from America or Europe 
enters Egypt through one of her two northern ports, Alexandria 
or Port Said. Alexandria, a flourishing city since England’s 
protectorate gave new impetus to its commerce, is situated on the 
Nile delta. Port Said, which owes its existence to the Suez 
Canal, lies near the eastern boundary and at the entrance to the 
canal. At Alexandria the passenger lands at the dock; but at 
Port Said he is taken ashore in a tender. Cairo being the ob- 
jective point, the traveler loses no time in boarding the train 
which will carry him over the intervening miles to one of the 
most fascinating cities of all the world. 

Raihvays. The railway service of Egypt is fairly comfortable. 
The cars are small and patterned after the English railway car- 
riage. The dust is almost unbearable, and the windows, as well 
as the heavy wooden shutters which are necessary to exclude the 
sun, usually have to be closed. In leaving the compartment to 
go to the dining car be sure to have the guard lock the door upon 
your hand baggage, and securely fasten the windows, to prevent 
any loss from theft. A small tip to the guard will insure atten- 
tion. At various stations fruits of different kinds will be offered 
to the traveler. It is safe to buy anything whose outer covering 
can be removed, thus assuring absolute cleanliness within. It is 
not advisable to buy the beverages offered for sale unless in sealed 
bottles with an European label intact. A fly brush is usually the 
first purchase made by the tourist, as flies are still one of the 
plagues of Egypt. 


20 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Cairo. This city with its oriental environment, mosques, 
bazaars, shops, and luxurious hotels is undoubtedly fascinating. 
Commanding a superb view, and situated about 250 feet above 
the town’s level, stands the Citadel. Directly below the over- 
hanging cliff the city itself spreads out. The Museum of Egyptian 
Antiquities houses a wonderful collection of mummies, statues 
and other specimens of the arts of the ancient Egyptians. The 
bazaars, the best of which are located on the Mouski, in old Cairo, 
are of great interest to the tourist. Here are found the Egyptian 
and Turkish work in gold and silver, sweetmeats, embroideries, 
rugs and other wares. 

Language. Arabic is the language of the people, but so cos- 
mopolitan is the tide of travel through Egypt that all languages 
are heard and interpreters are always available. 

Dragomen. A list of guides licensed by the government can 
be found at the offices of the hotels. It is well to make use of the 
services of a dragoman for sightseeing or shopping as he can 
save the tourist's time and avert many unpleasant experiences. 

Up the Nile. The traveler who wishes to go up the Nile will 
find a sufficient variety of transportation to gratify almost any 
demand. The quickest way is by rail, but to go by rail is to miss 
the whole charm of the trip. The slowest way is to sail up, in a 
Nile boat called a “dahabiyeh," but this way is very costly, both 
in time and money. The simplest and in many ways the most 
satis factorv way is to take one of the regular tourist steamers 
which make the trip to the second cataract and back to Cairo in 
about three weeks. Among the many points of interest are the 
site of ancient Memphis, the tombs and grottoes near Beni-Has- 
san, the ruins of Karnak, the temple and town of Luxor, and the 
Sphinx and the Pyramids at the edge of the Libyan Desert. 

Money. The money and coinage of Egypt will be found 
remarkably simple and practical, the decimal system being used. 
The monetary unit is the piastre of 10 milliemes, which is worth 
five cents in United States money. There are ^4 an d /4 millieme 
pieces of copper, 1, 2, 5 milliemes of nickel, 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 
piastres of silver, and 50 and 100 piastres of gold. Notes of 50 
piastres, one pound Egyptian, 5, 10, 50 and 100 pounds Egyptian 
are issued bv the National Bank. English sovereigns are current 
at 97^4 piastres; English bank notes are subject to a varying 
exchange. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


21 


To Southern Italy, the Land of Sunshine and Song 

Landing . Passengers arriving by steamer at Naples are 
landed by tender. Baggage is cleared in the harbor buildings near 
the landing stage. Trouble and delay will be avoided at the 
customs house if passengers are careful not to carry tobacco or 
cigars in trunks or suit cases. 

Naples. This city is most pleasantly situated on the bay of 
the same name, whose charms have been sung in song and story. 
As a background for this gorgeous setting, there is Mount 
Vesuvius in its terrific and overpowering grandeur. A visit to 
the National Museum, where the objects excavated in Pompeii 
and Herculaneum are to be seen, will amply repay the tourist ; 
also to the Aquarium, which has been pronounced one of the 
finest in the world. 

Railway Time. The Italian clocks and timetables are ar- 
ranged on the twenty-four hour system; the hours from midnight 
to midnight being numbered consecutively from one to twenty- 
four. Thus in Italy 24.01 means 1 minute after midnight, 12.01 
means one minute after noon, 17.25 means 5.25 P. M. and 24.0 
is exactly midnight. 

Italian Railway Regulations. The traveler in Italy should 
exercise special care in complying with all printed regulations of 
the railway tickets. It is advisable to write one’s name on a 
gummed label and affix same to the outside of the ticket case. 
If the railway ticket is demanded for inspection by an Italian 
official, the tourist should be very careful to see that he is given 
back his own ticket, thus saving unnecessary confusion. 

Baggage. No baggage is transported free on Italian railroads 
with the exception of the small hand bags carried by the passen- 
gers. Insurance of all baggage is advised. The rate is very low. 

Letters. Letters and parcels should be clearly addressed, and 
“Mr.” instead of “Esq.” should be used. Writing must be dis- 
tinct, and it is well to underline the surname. Persons applying 
for letters should present their cards or passports, or a photo- 
graph with a clearly addressed envelope, as the postal authorities 
often find great difficulty in reading English names. 

Customs. The only dutiable articles which the traveler is 
likely to carry into Italy are tobacco and spirits, and on these 
the duty is trifling. 


22 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Cabs. Cabs are cheaper in Italy than in any other country 
in Europe. The tariff will be found posted inside the cab. 
A small gratuity, not over five cents, should be given to the 
driver in addition to the fare. 

Italian Money. The monetary unit is the lira of ioo cen- 
tesimi, the equivalent of $0,193 in United States or Canadian 
money. The following table gives a complete summary of 
Italian coins and notes and their equivalent values in dollars and 
cents : 


Copper Coins 

Silver Coins 

Gold Coins 

Government and 
Bank Notes 

5 c $0.0096 

ioc .0193 

20c ( N ickel ).0386 

1 lira 

2 lire 

5 “ 

$0,193 

.386 

•96s 

5 lire $ .965 
10 “ 1.93 

20 “ 3.80 

5 lire 
10 “ 

50 

IOO “ 

500 

1000 

$ .965 

1-93 

9.65 

19.30 

96.50 

193.00 


Hotels. Hotels in Italy are numerous and it is easy to find 
accommodations suitable to the means of the traveler. Lists of 
hotels with their location and tariffs are to be found in the guide 
books, or secured at the tourist offices. Upon the departure of 
the guest gratuities are expected by the hotel servants for 
services rendered. 

Guides. The services of a guide may be secured in all the 
principal cities of Italy. He should be recommended by the hotel 
or tourist office, and the amount to be paid for his services should 
be clearly understood by both parties. 

Language. A ‘‘phrase book” especially prepared for the use 
of travelers is of great assistance. .Sentences expressing the 
needs of persons traveling are given in English, French, Italian, 
German and Esperanto. These books may be obtained at railway 
stations. 

Shops. The traveler will want to buy corals in Naples, mosaic 
work in Florence and Rome, and lace and beads in Venice. There 
are so many beautiful things displayed that the difficulty is not 
in the buying but in the wise selection. As in every foreign 
country, the traveler should be careful to buy only articles which 
he knows are genuine or else buy from firms upon whose integ- 
rity he may rely. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


23 


Through Switzerland, the Playground of Europe 

Accessibility. Travel has been made so easy in Switzerland, 
and the points of interest are so accessible by train or boat, that 
it has become the most cosmopolitan of the countries of Europe. 

Passport. It is advisable to have a passport for purposes of 
identification. 

Hotels. Comfortable, commodious hotels abound, and there 
are excellent pensions for the traveler of moderate means. The 
price of rooms usually includes breakfast. At resorts such as 
Interlaken and St. Moritz, an additional charge is customary if 
neither of the other two meals of the day is eaten at the hotel. 
In the cities, however, this charge is less usual. 

Language. English is now spoken in all the first-class hotels, 
and interpreters are to be found at all railway stations. The 
numerals in French, German and Italian can be easily learned and 
a phrase book is a convenience. 

Money. The coinage of Switzerland is like that of France. 
The franc of ioo centimes ($0,193) is the unit. French, Belgian, 
Italian and Greek coins are in circulation and the traveler 
must exercise care lest he receive foreign coins which are not 
current. 

Customs. New wearing apparel, hats and bonnets, tea, coffee, 
provisions, soap, salt, sugar, confectionery, wines and spirits, 
perfumery, tobacco, stationery, jewelry and candles are dutiable. 
Examinations of luggage are made at stations nearest the fron- 
tier. Passengers must always be present and deliver their keys 
to the customs officer. 

Baggage. Baggage is not carried free of charge on the rail- 
ways of Switzerland. Only the handbaggage of the traveler is 
allowed in the railway carriage. 

Season 7'ickets. The Swiss Federal Railways issue season 
tickets, called “Abonnements,” which are a great convenience to 
the traveler. Information concerning them may be easily ob- 
tained. They are non-transferable, and are good for various 
periods from two weeks to one year. They are accepted on all 
the state railways and steamers, and also entitle the holder to a 
discount on most private lines. These tickets are unlimited as 
to mileage. 


24 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Climate and Clothing. The climate of Switzerland varies 
with its altitude, the lake levels being much warmer than the 
mountain tops, which are covered with perpetual snow and ice. 
The discretion of the traveler must be exercised as to the quan- 
tity and weight of clothing required for the varying temperatures 
which may be experienced in the course of a single day. 

Season for Travel. The spring months, March, April, and 
May, are the most delightful time of the year for a visit to Lugano 
and the Italian Lakes district, and May and June for the moun- 
tains. Many of the loveliest wild flowers are then in bloom 
and all Switzerland is in the perfection of its beauty. The fash- 
ionable “ season ” comes a little later, in July and August, and 
at that time the hotels are crowded and prices higher. Many 
winter sports have been introduced and those enjoying the brac- 
ing atmosphere of the snow-covered countries will find a winter 
trip to Switzerland a delight. 

Points of Interest. There are a great many points of interest 
to the traveler in Switzerland, a few of which are Lake Geneva, 
beloved by Byron ; Lausanne, with its famous cathedral, and 
the house where Gibbon wrote most of his noted history; Rhone 
Valley, with Zermatt and the Matterhorn ; the Swiss-Italian 
lakes, Como and Maggiore ; the Grisons with the Engadine ; 
Lucerne and its lake of rare beauty ; and the Bernese Oberland 
with its mighty giants, the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. 

Mountain Climbing. Those who wish to try the arduous 
feat of making the ascent of one or more of the mountains 
by their own effort and skill, can arrange for such excursions 
with the regular guides who make a business of mountain 
climbing. The guide will assist in the selection of the proper 
outfit, including the Alpine stick and ice-ax. The rate of pay- 
ment for these guides is fixed by the Central Committee of the 
Swiss Alpine Club. The guides pay their own expenses when 
stopping at hotels, but en route the charges are borne by the 
traveler. The ascent of Matterhorn is begun at Zermatt. Lauter- 
brunnen is the center from which Jungfrau excursions may be 
made. A visit to the great Glacier is made from the Jungfrau- 
joch Station on the Jungfrau Railway. Travelers are warned 
not to go any distance from the station without a guide. The 
paths from Weggis and Goldau (a station on the St. Gothard 
Railway some miles from Lucerne) are the most frequented 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


25 


and best kept in that region. Of the two routes mentioned the 
path from Goldau is perhaps the most impressive in its sudden 
revealment of the entire vast panorama of the Alps. Another 
charming excursion from Lucerne requiring about a day, is that 
of the ascent of the Rigi Hochfluh. From Gersau, which is 
reached by steamer from Lucerne, the path leads the traveler 
in a walk of about three hours to the summit. 


Round About Paris, or a Trip to the Quaint Corners 

of the French Capital 

City of the Seine. Paris is naturally divided into three parts ; 
the quarters on the right bank of the Seine, the Isle de la Cite and 
the Isle St. Louis, and the quarters on the left bank of the Seine. 
The Seine with its flotilla of merchant ships and barges, the 
many bridges spanning it from shore to shore, presents an ever- 
changing picture of which the observer never tires. 

Transportation. Steamers, steam and electric railways and 
automobiles transport the tourist to the beautiful environs of 
Paris. On ordinary railroads in France 66 lbs. of baggage may 
be carried free. 

Customs. In France the importation of matches and playing 
cards is strictly prohibited, and if found in baggage they are 
liable to be confiscated. Tobacco, wines, and liqueurs are sub- 
ject to a considerable duty. 

Money. The standard monetary unit of France is the franc 
of ioo centimes, worth $0,193 ' m the United States or Canadian 
money. As France belongs to the Latin Monetary Union its 
standard unit has the same value as that of Belgium, Switzer- 
land, Greece, Spain and Italy. The table below gives a summary 
of French money, with its approximate equivalents in dollars 
and cents : 


Copper and Nickel Coin? 

Silver Coins 

Gold 

Coins 

Bank Notes 

Sou or 5c. $0.009611 

50c. 

$0 . 0965 

5 f. 

$0,965 

50 f. 

$ 9-65 


1 f. 

.193 

10 f. 

1-93 

100 f. 

19.30 

2 sou or ioc .0193 

2 f. 

.386 

20 f. 

3-86 

500 f. 

96.50 


s f. 

■965 



1000 f. 

193.00 


26 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Catacombs . These former quarries furnished the stone to 
build “old” Paris. They occupy nearly a fourth of the whole 
Paris area. In 1786 it was decided to transform these quarries 
into catacombs and bury there the bones of persons interred in 
the churches and cemeteries of Paris. Permission to visit the 
catacombs must be obtained from the Chief Engineer of the 
Department of Public Works (Prefecture of the Seine). 

The Sewers. The sewers of Paris are examples of wonder- 
ful engineering and can be easily explored even by ladies. Vis- 
itors descend from the Place du Chatelet. A trip to the sewers 
may be made on the second and fourth Wednesdays of the 
month. Permission must be obtained from the Department of 
Public Works (Prefecture de la Seine). 

Montmartre. The Butte Montmartre, which is crowned 
by the Sacred Heart Cathedral, is a center for Bohemian life in 
Paris. Here are located the eccentric and curious cafes and 
cabarets, such as the “Le Moulin Rouge” (The Red Mill), 
and many others which have taken their names from “natural 
or unnatural” history. 

Sevres. One of the oldest towns in the vicinity of Paris is 
Sevres. It is situated on the left bank of the Seine en route to 
Versailles. Here is the old palace of the dukes of Brancas and 
the celebrated porcelain factory, which is open to visitors on 
certain days. Permission to visit these workshops must be 
obtained at the office of the factory. 

Versailles. A ride of forty or fifty minutes by tram brings 
the tourist to Versailles, where are to be found the celebrated 
palace of Louis XIV and the two equally famous Trianons. The 
galleries of the palace contain hundreds of paintings and statues, 
many of artistic excellence and all of great historical interest. 

Fontainebleau. This charming spot, with its many historical 
associations, lies about thirty-seven miles south of Paris. The 
traveler leaves Paris at the Gare de Lyon, the station for the 
railway to Lyons. Fontainebleau has been for centuries the 
playground of the rulers of France. Napoleon alone spent more 
than $2,500,000 on various improvements in the palaces and 
grounds. The great forest of Fontainebleau, whose 66 square 
miles are noted as the haunt of French landscape painters, will 
well repay an afternoon’s drive through its shade. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


27 


A Pilgrimage to Oberammergau, the Passion Play 

Village 

A Unique Village. Oberammergau is unique among the 
places of interest visited by the stranger in Europe, but it is 
only every ten years that the flood tide of travel flows in its 
direction. The village lies about forty-three miles southwest of 
Munich, and can be reached most conveniently from that city. 
The journey is made by rail, the traveler changing at Murnau 
to the short line of railroad which has replaced the long carriage 
ride from Murnau to Oberammergau. 

Munich. Munich, the capital of P>avaria, is one of the most 
interesting cities of the German Empire and well worth all the 
time that can be devoted to it. Its ancient gates, art galleries, 
and industries are all objects of absorbing interest. Its name 
in German is Munchen, the city of the Little Monk, and the 
story accounting for this name is an ancient one. 

Baggage. No baggage is carried free on German railroads; 
the expense of transportation depends on weight and distance. 
Only the hand baggage is permitted in the railway carriage. 

Customs. New wearing apparel, toys, soaps, cigars and cigar- 
ettes, tobacco, wood and bronze ware are dutiable. Baggage is 
examined at the frontier, unless sent registered to some special 
point where the examination is then made. 

Hotels. Rooms in the hotel at Oberammergau must be se- 
cured long in advance. It is considered very desirable, however, 
to be assigned to rooms in the homes of the villagers, and pref- 
erence is given to those who apply first for this privilege. The 
tourist planning to visit Oberammergau during the Passion Play 
should make his arrangements far enough in advance to secure 
desirable accommodations. 

The Play. The performance is regarded as an act of divine 
worship by the villager, and is given with the deepest reverence. 
General interest in this remarkable work was first shown in 
1850, and since then many articles and descriptions have been 
written concerning it. The actors are selected from the inhabi- 
tants of the village and its environs. In many instances the 
same parts have been played by successive generations of the 
same families. It is considered the greatest honor to be permitted 
to take part in the play and the deepest disgrace to be excluded 


28 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


from it. This sentiment has had its effect upon the moral char- 
acter of the villagers. To play the part of Christus is considered 
one of the greatest earthly honors obtainable. 

Cycling Through Corsica, the Land of the Vendetta 

Corsican Ports. The visitor to the island of Corsica usually 
enters by one of three ports: Ajaccio on the west coast, Calvi 

on the northwest, or Bastia at the extreme northeastern part 
of the island. 

Steamship Service. Weekly steamship service to Corsica 
from the continent is given by the Fraissinet (French Mail) 
Steamship Co., between Marseilles, Leghorn, Bastia and other 
Corsican ports. There is also a weekly steamship service be- 
tween Nice and the Corsican ports. The itineraries of the 
steamers are subject to change, and the passenger must inform 
himself as to the accommodations available on board, as some 
ships do not provide sleeping quarters. Passengers at Mar- 
seilles may embark at the Quai de la Joliette or Mole de 
TAbattoir. 

Railways. Railways connect the three principal coast towns 
of Corsica — Ajaccio, Calvi, and Bastia. 

Roads. The French have constructed magnificent roads 
throughout the interior of the island. Arrangements for a trip 
by carriage into the island should be made through the Ameri- 
can or British Consul at Ajaccio or Bastia. 

Money. French money is current in the island. Some 
French colonial coins are used. 

The Island. Approached as it is from the sea, Corsica is a 
frowning pile of rock giving little idea of the great beauty of 
its interior. The island is of special interest to admirers of 
Napoleon, for here, in 1769, in the little town of Ajaccio, was 
born the man who was to wrest the imperial diadem from the 
hands of the very Pope of Rome. 

Climate. The climate of Corsica ranges from warmth in 
the lowlands to extreme cold in the mountains. In the inter- 
mediate districts the climate is temperate and healthful. 

Inhabitants. The Corsican is simple in his manners, digni- 
fied, proud and possessed of native courtesy. Hospitality is 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


29 


always offered the stranger. The Corsican is implacable and 
vengeful toward his enemies and in all questions sides with his 
clan or family. In business he is unenterprising; a political 
career being the ambition of almost every man, agriculture and 
commerce are neglected. In spite of increasing contact with the 
rest of the world, the Corsican remains much as he always has 
been. 

Fishing and Hunting. Only those holding a government 
license are permitted to fish or hunt on the island of Corsica. 
Fish and game are very plentiful, and the mountainous interior 
makes both sports attractive. 

A Trip to London, the Metropolis of the World 

Arrival. Visitors to the city of London can enter by rail- 
way, road or steamer. With the exception of Charing Cross, 
the terminals of the great railway trunk lines entering London 
are on the outskirts of the central area known as “the City.'' 
The stations of the four railway lines from the north are Maryle- 
bone, Euston, St. Pancras, and King’s Cross. Paddington is the 
terminus of the western system, and Liverpool Street Station of 
the eastern system. The southern lines of railways end at Vic- 
toria, Charing Cross, Waterloo, Holborn Viaduct and London 
Bridge. 

Roads. The great roads into London, the highways for 
stage coach and motor cars, are the Uxbridge, Harrow and 
Edgeware roads from the northwest, which meet at the Marble 
Arch; the Finchley and Edmonton roads from the north; the 
Epping, Romford and Barking roads from the east ; and the 
Kingston, Brighton and Dover roads from the south. 

Docks. The docks all lie east of London Bridge and extend 
as far as Tilbury, about twenty-seven miles down the river 
Thames. 

Railway Lines in London. The chief railway lines used in 
inner London are the Metropolitan, the Metropolitan District 
(commonly known as the District) and the Central London 
Railway. The latter is a tubular underground railway operated 
entirely by electricity. Other electric tubular railways connect- 
ing en route with the Central London, make the underground 
railway system of London very complete. 


30 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Hotels. The higher priced hotels of London are in the West 
End. The more moderate priced hotels are in what is known as 
the Bloomsbury district and in “the City/’ 

Omnibuses. The familiar 'bus traverses London in all direc- 
tions from early morning till past midnight. The names of 
the terminal points and the streets passed through are generally 
printed on the outside of the vehicle. A table of the legal fares 
is posted inside. For any distance within “the City," the fare 
is one penny, or two cents, American money. The principal 'bus 
centers are the Bank, Charing Cross, Hyde Park Corner, Pic- 
cadilly Circus, King’s Cross, Islington and the Elephant. 

Trams of London. As all the tramways or street car lines 
of London are outside of the West End and “the City," they 
are of little use to the sightseer unless he wishes to reach some 
of the suburban districts. The fares are moderate. 

Cabs. There are three classes of cabs in London; the “four- 
wheelers," “hansoms" and “taxi-cabs." The fares vary with 
the class of vehicle employed. 

Maps and Guide Books. It is suggested that the traveler 
arriving in London familiarize himself with the map of the city. 
A good guide book will give him an idea of the places he will 
wish to see and the map will assist him in locating them. With- 
out a guide book the traveler will waste a great deal of time. 

Sightseeing in Paris, the City Magnificent 

The French Metropolis. Paris is not only the political me- 
tropolis of France, but also the center of the artistic, scientific, 
commercial and industrial life of the nation. It has long en- 
joyed the reputation of being the most cosmopolitan city in 
Europe, for here the artist, scholar, merchant and votary of 
pleasure alike find their special interests. 

Seasons. Paris is interesting at all times, although the spring 
and autumn are generally conceded to be the best seasons, with 
perhaps a preference for the former. During mid-summer many 
of the Parisians leave the city, and some of the larger places of 
amusement are closed. 

Guide Book. A guide book containing a good sectional map 
of the city of Paris is a necessity to the tourist. It will enable 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


31 


him to save much time and be invaluable in giving the location 
and description of the many points of interest. 

Hotels . The most fashionable hotels are located in the imme- 
diate neighborhood of the Place Vendome, although there are 
many excellent quarters elsewhere. All the large hotels are 
provided with modern luxuries, and the charges correspond to 
the accommodations. “Pensions/’ where board and rooms may 
be secured for a reasonable sum, are recommended if a long stay 
is possible. 

Conveyances. Motor omnibuses and tramways cross the city 
in every direction. There are also tramway lines to Versailles 
and other suburban points. The fares on all the lines within 
Paris are the same. Cabs, flies and automobiles are available, 
each class with its own tariff. Compared with the charges in 
the United States, the fares are very low. 

Shops. The most attractive shops are those in the Grands 
Boulevards, the Rue de la Paix, Avenue de l’Opera, Rue Royale, 
Rue du Quatre Septembre, and Rue de Rivoli, but there are large 
and much frequented emporiums in other parts of the city. 

See, also, “Round About Paris,” page 25. 

Berlin, the City of the Kaiser 

A Clean City. The absolute cleanliness of the streets, the 
orderliness of every municipal arrangement and the strict en- 
forcement of the laws maintaining this ideal condition All the 
visitor with admiration. There are no “back yards'’ in Berlin ; 
balconies filled with flowers ornament the buildings, out-door 
cafes give glimpses of cheerful sociability, and the traveler is 
confirmed in his impression that Berlin is a “city beautiful.” Much 
of this appearance of cleanliness and orderliness is undoubtedly 
due to the fact that Berlin is essentially a modern city. Most 
of Berlin dates from the end of the Franco-Prussian War, and 
the traveler must not expect to find relics of mediaeval Germany 
except in the museums. 

Famous Streets. L T nter-den-Linden is the famous street of 
Berlin on which are the palaces, the large hotels, the best shops 
and the parade of social life. L T nter-den-Linden runs from the 
palace of the emperor to the Brandenburger Thor. West of the 
Brandenburger Thor is the famous Sieges Allee, or Avenue of 


32 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Victory, with its thirty-two monuments to the predecessors of 
Emperor William II. Other famous avenues are the Behren 
Strasse, the counterpart of Wall Street, and the Wilhelm Strasse, 
the Downing Street of Berlin. 

Shops. Besides the high-priced shops on Unter-den-Linden, 
excellent shops are located on Leipziger Strasse and Friedrich 
Strasse in the central part of the city. The crossing of these two 
streets is the heart of Berlin’s retail shopping section. 

Trams. The street-car system of Berlin is wonderfully com- 
plete and covers all portions of the city. The fare is ten pfennigs, 
or two cents. A tip of five pfennigs is generally given to the 
conductor, who will then pay some attention to the passenger 
and notify him of his arrival at the street where he wishes to 
leave the car. 

Places to Visit. Some of the palaces are open to visitors at 
stated times during the week. A small admittance fee is asked 
and a tip or “trinkgelt” should be given to the guide who takes 
the tourist through the rooms. The Kaiser Friedrich Museum 
contains many famous paintings. The so-called “old” and “new” 
museums, including among their treasures many Greek and 
Roman antiquities, are noteworthy. The Tiergarten, originally a 
deer preserve, is now a great park, and the collection of ani- 
mals in the Zoological Garden is one of the finest in the world. 
Many fine statues have been placed in various parts of the city ; 
indeed, as has been aptly said, “the woods are full of them.” 

Charlottenburg. This suburb, only three miles west of Berlin, 
is easily reached by tram. It is the center of the American col- 
ony, and is also noted for the magnificent mausoleum of the 
Emperor William I and his parents. 

Potsdam. This suburb contains the present summer home 
of the Emperor, and also Sans Souci, the favorite residence of 
Frederick the Great. The body of this great soldier lies in a 
simple coffin in the Potsdam Garrison Church. Napoleon, at the 
height of his power, visited this church in company with some 
of his officers. It is said that when he noticed that their hats 
remained untouched he commanded abruptly: “Hats off, gentle- 
men. If he were alive, you would not be here.” 

Passports. It is advisable to carry a passport should the 
tourist intend to spend a considerable time in Berlin. The pos- 
session of a passport is not obligatory, but as evidence of identity 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


33 


may be required at any time, it is well to be provided with this 
means of identification. 

Norway, the Land of the Midnight Sun 

Steamers. The most comfortable way to visit Norway is to 
travel by one of the magnificent steamers in and out of the fjords 
or bays of the coast to the North Cape. Stops are made at various 
ports long enough to give the tourist short shore excursions. 
There are special ocean yachts for cruising in Norwegian 
waters. The advantage of travel upon a ship of this kind is 
the greater space given for cabin and deck room. The ships 
generally carry their own launches, which simplifies the matter 
of embarking and disembarking in the shore excursions. 

Clothing. As the temperature of Norway is variable and the 
traveler may go far into the Arctic circle, both heavy and light 
clothing should be taken. A raincoat and a pair of stout walk- 
ing boots or shoes are recommended for use on shore excursions, 
as rain and rocks are sure to be encountered occasionally. 

Tourist Bureaus. Steamers carrying excursionists to the 
North Cape usually have on board a Tourist Bureau for the in- 
formation and convenience of travelers. For the payment of 
a very small fee, the representative of the Bureau will make all 
arrangements for the shore trips, and thus relieve the tourist of 
every care. 

Ship Time. The nautical day begins at noon and is divided 
into “watches” of four hours each, except from 4 to 8 p. M., which 
time is divided into two watches of two hours each. Each hour 
and half hour of the day is announced by the ship’s bell. When 
going eastward the time on board ship is changed daily, being 
put forward four minutes for each degree of longitude, and in 
going westward it is set back four minutes for each degree. On 
shore excursions the traveler should be careful to have his watch 
set to ship's time as posted daily on the bulletin board in the 
purser's office. Steamers do not wait for belated passengers. 

Hotels. There are good hotels for tourists in Norway, open 
during the summer, at all places usually visited by strangers. 
The charges are moderate and the service excellent. Some of 
the native dishes served are delicious, and the water is good in 
all parts of the country. 


34 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Railways . The railway trains of Norway are composed of 
second- and third-class carriages, except during the tourist sea- 
son, when first-class carriages are added to the service. The 
country has a comparatively small mileage of railroads, prac- 
tically all owned by the government. 

Roads. The government has supervised the building of high- 
ways through the interior, and hundreds of miles of good roads 
make every part easily accessible. The “cariole,” a single passen- 
ger vehicle, and the “stolkjaerre,” made to hold two passengers, 
are the native carts that can be hired for inland drives. 

Money. The monetary unit in Norway, as also in Sweden 
and Denmark, is the krone of ioo ore. One krone is worth about 
$0,268 in United States or Canadian money and is. id. in British 
money. The following table summarizes the coinage of the three 
Scandinavian countries and the approximate value of coins and 
notes in dollars and cents. 


Bronze Coins 

Silver 

Coins 

Gold 

Coins 

Bank Notes 

1 ore 

$0 . 0026 

10 ore 

$0 . 026 

5 kr. 

$ 1-34 

1 kr. 

$ 0 . 268 

2 ore 

.005 

25 ore 

.065 

10 kr. 

2.68 

5 kr. 

1-34 

5 ore 

.013 

50 ore 

.12 

20 kr. 

5-36 

10 kr. 

2.68 



1 kr. 

.268 

Ducat 

2.24 

20 kr. 

13.40 



2 kr. 

.536 



100 kr. 

26.80 







500 kr. 

134.00 







1000 kr. 

268.00 


These coins are all current in Norway, Sweden and Denmark, 
and the bank notes are accepted in the large cities of those coun- 
tries. In making trips into the interior, the traveler should carry 
the notes of the country which he is visiting. 


Touring Sweden, Where the Boats “Go Up Hill” 

Goteborg. The tourist from the south or west enters Sweden 
at the seaport of Goteborg on the Skagerrack. This city of 
175,000 people is situated on the southwest coast of Sweden, and 
is one of its principal ports. In itself it presents few attractions 
for the tourist, but it makes a good center from which to visit 
the popular summer resorts of Sweden at Marstrand, Sard or 
Lysekil. It is at Goteborg the traveler begins his journey through 
the Gota Canal. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


35 


The Goto Canal . This remarkable overland waterway extends 
from Goteborg a distance of 230,miles to Stockholm, on the 
southeastern coast of Sweden. The passenger embarks on a com- 
fortable little boat, which will be his home for fifty-six hours, at 
the pier Lilia Brommen. The progress is naturally slow, but not 
slow enough to tire the traveler, as there is no monotony in the 
scenery. While the boat is passing through the numerous locks 
the traveler may walk along the country roads so charmingly 
described by Mr. Holmes in the Travelogues. 

At Askersvass, while the steamboat is ascending through 
eleven locks, there is time to visit the Falls of Trollhattan. These 
falls, while not equaled in Europe, seem small when compared 
with Niagara. They are six in number, the highest being forty- 
two feet. They develop 225,000 horse-power, most of which is 
used for industrial purposes. 

Motala. This little town on Lake Vettern is a good point to 
stop over for an excursion around the lake. An express steamer 
from Jonkoping lands here and will carry passengers for a very 
moderate fare to the interesting points nearby. The hill of Om- 
berg south of Motala is an objective point for an interesting drive. 
It is 871 feet high and covered with beautiful forests. 

Taxicabs. Fares are moderate. The tariff is invariably posted 
in the cab and a small gratuity is usually added to this fare. 

Hotels . Hotels in Sweden are excellent, and every comfort 
known to the traveler in his own country is given him in this. 
Rates are moderate and the tourist can easily find the hotel to suit 
his purse. 

Stockholm. The capital and principal city of Sweden is 
called by tourists “Little Paris” or the “Venice of the North.” 
By its inhabitants, the city is sometimes called “The Queen of 
the Malar,” in reference to the beautiful lake on the shores of 
which it is built. The best views of the picturesque site of Stock- 
holm are obtained from the Norrbro, a bridge of seven granite 
arches, spanning the small river which is the outlet of the lake, 
and from the terrace of the Opera House. The “King’s Garden” 
is the chief winter promenade. Other points of interest are: 
the National Museum, the National Library, the New Riksdag 
or Parliament Building, the Palace, and the various old churches 
of Stockholm. 


36 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Sk arisen. A visit to Skansen will prove of the greatest inter- 
est, illustrating as it does the national life of the people. Skan- 
sen is located in the Royal Deer Park, where seventy acres have 
been set apart for the express purpose of reproducing, to the 
most minute detail, the architecture and costumes of the Swedish 
provinces. 

A Journey to Denmark, the Island Kingdom 

First Glimpses. The visitor to this quaint country will note 
with pleased surprise the absence of beggars, for there are none 
in Denmark. Prosperity is so evenly distributed that absolute 
want is unknown. The interior towns are the places where the 
ancient customs and dress of the people are to be found, as 
the larger cities are conforming to the fashions and manners of 
other countries. 

Copenhagen. This city is the center of trade of Denmark, 
and its commerce is greater than that of the rest of the kingdom 
together. Porcelain, among the many other industries of Den- 
mark, is making rapid advancement under this wise government, 
and the tourist will wish to visit the Royal Porcelain Factory 
which was founded in 1772. The independent attitude in de- 
velopment of form and color adopted by the Royal Porcelain 
Factory has afforded a model in porcelain making for the rest of 
Europe. 

Hotels. The largest and most modern hotels have electric 
light and baths. Restaurants are numerous throughout the city 
of Copenhagen. A cup of tea or coffee costs ten ore, about two 
cents. Beer, milk, eggs and “smorrebrod" or sandwiches tempt 
the appetite of the tourist at the little cafes. 

Tramways. The street car system of Copenhagen is very 
complete and gives the tourist ready access to every part of the 
city. The fare is ten ore, including transfer. 

Cabs. The cabs hold from one to four people and cost about 
1 kroner (about 37/4 cents) an hour in the city; two kroner 
an hour if used beyond the city limits. Half fare is charged for 
the return, if the cab is discharged at some distance from the 
center of the city. Small pieces of baggage are carried free. 
Trunks are charged for at the rate of fifteen ore. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


37 


Places to J'isit. The Tivoli, near the main railway station, is 
a large and popular amusement park much patronized in summer. 
The Old Glyptothek houses the most celebrated collection of 
Roman portrait statues and busts in the world. The New Glyp- 
tothek contains a fine exhibit of Danish and French works. The 
King’s Market is near the center of the old or inner city and is 
a large irregular space surrounded by handsome buildings. On 
the east side is the Palace of Charlottenborg, which was built in 
1672 and since 1754 has been occupied by the Royal Academy of 
Art. Near-by is the Royal Theater. A visit to the Round 
Tower will give the tourist an excellent view of the city. An 
excursion should also be made to Helsingor, the scene of Shakes- 
peare’s “Hamlet;’’ and to Frederiksborg, where the traveler finds 
the historical museum of Denmark. 

Rural Denmark . Denmark has no great scenic wonders. It 
has, however, an industrious people who have made their land 
one of the most productive on the earth. Over eighty per cent 
of the total area is used for agricultural purposes. Danish eggs 
are served fresh every day in London hotels ; Danish butter is 
famous all over the world. 

To St. Petersburg, the Imperial City of Russia . 

Passports. Visitors to Russia must be provided with pass- 
ports bearing the vise of the Russian consul, made within six 
months of the date of entering Russia. If the traveler takes a 
steamer to Russia, his passport is placed in the hands of the pur- 
ser. After his baggage has been examined by the custom’s officials 
at the entry port, the document will be returned to him. If 
entering Russia by train, a gendarme will take up the passport 
at the frontier station, returning it after the baggage has been 
opened and passed by the customs inspectors. 

At the hotel the traveler must hand his passport to the man- 
ager, who will take it to police headquarters to have it registered. 
A small fee for registration and a gratuity to the hotel for 
attending to the matter need not exceed one rouble. Twenty- 
four hours notice must be given before leaving Russia, and the 
passport must be so countersigned as to constitute permission to 
cross the frontier. A small fee of one and a half roubles is paid 
for this service. 


38 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Cabs. The cabs of St. Petersburg are the “droskis” so 
cleverly described in the Travelogues. 

Hotels. The best hotels are roomy, well furnished and inex- 
pensive. Electric light, baths, good beds and an excellent cuisine 
make the visit to St. Petersburg a very comfortable one. 

Climate and Clothes. Warm clothing should be carried, and 
in winter furs are an absolute necessity. The greatest precau- 
tions must be taken in winter against the freezing of the face or 
hands. The summers are warm and come very suddenly. 

Shops. The “Great Bazaar” is the Mecca of the shopper, but 
the articles displayed are too often of foreign manufacture, and 
unless the tourist wishes something “made in Germany” it may 
be advisable to visit the shops of Moscow before buying Russian 
souvenirs. Shops on the Nevsky Prospect and the Bolchaya Mors- 
kaya, in St. Petersburg, show exquisite furs and porcelains. 

Places of Interest. The Kasan Cathedral houses the famous 
icon called “The Lady of Kasan.” The Memorial Church of 
Alexander II, the Fortress, the Alexander I Monument, and 
the Hermitage, which ranks with the first galleries of Europe, 
should be visited. 

Places of Amusement. The Islands (numbering about forty) 
in the Neva delta are reached by little steamers leaving the Sum- 
mer Gardens every twenty minutes. The fare is five to ten ko- 
peks. The Summer Gardens and the Zoological Gardens are two 
very popular places of amusement. 

The Nevsky Prospect. Alexander Gardens are the center 
from which radiate the three principal streets of St. Petersburg. 
The one which is world-famous is the Nevsky Prospect, the one 
crowded street of the city, where throng all sorts and conditions 
of men. The irregular division of daylight and darkness which 
prevails in this northern latitude have practically made the “day” 
of St. Petersburg endless. The revelers going home meet the 
workmen coming to work. The street is three miles long. 

Churches. These are second only to the churches of Moscow, 
and of them all, St. Isaac’s is the one which most impresses the 
traveler with its magnificent severity. The cupola, lantern, and 
cross are overlaid by hundreds of pounds of gold leaf. The 
pillars are shafts of granite sixty feet high and the bronze doors 
should be carefully examined. Attention is called to the pillars 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 39 

of malachite and lapis lazuli, and the jeweled “icons,” in the in- 
terior. 

Palaces. The imperial palaces of Russia number one hundred 
and thirty-eight, and a lifetime could be spent in visiting them. 
The Winter Palace and the Tsarskoye Selo are the ones in 
which the tourist will be most interested. The Winter Palace 
fronts the Neva in St. Petersburg and at the oack is the square 
where stands the monument to Alexander I. Permission to 
visit this palace must be obtained through the Ambassador to 
Russia. Trains for “the Tsar's village" leave the Tsarskoye 
Selo Station, St. Petersburg, nearly every hour. The fare is 
50 cents, and the trip takes about half an hour. This palace 
of Tsarskoye Selo has most beautiful grounds lavishly orna- 
mented with graceful fountains and artistic bridges. The 
Vauxhall restaurant at Pavlovsk, three miles farther on, has 
delightful concerts, and is an excellent place to dine. The restau- 
rant is at the station. 

To Moscow, the Magnificent City of the Muscovites 

Heart of Russia. This city, which contains the “Heart of 
Russia," the Kremlin, holds also many other objects of interest 
to the traveler. Moscow is four hundred miles from St. Peters- 
burg and but eleven hours by fast express, yet it is wholly dif- 
ferent and by far one of the most fascinating places in Europe. 
St. Petersburg is European ; Moscow is Muscovite. 

The Red Square. About this square are buildings of special 
interest. On one side stands the Church of St. Basil. This is 
so remarkable that once seen it cannot be forgotten and serves 
as a guide to the tourist in locating the direction of his sight- 
seeing. 

On this square is also the enormous Riady or Gallery of 
Commerce. It is built in a series of arcades which cover the end- 
less number of shops where the traveler can indulge in purchases 
of shawls from Orenburg, laces from Kaluga, pottery from Pol- 
tave, toys from Sergievsky Possad, and wooden spoons from 
the Balukua District. The distinctlv characteristic articles to be 

j 

looked for here are the wonderful enamels made in the cellars 
of Moscow, and the samovars and Circassian jewelry. The lac- 
quer work of Moscow is also world-famous. 


40 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


The “ Thieves' Market " held on Sunday should not be missed 
by the tourist. It is held in the Red Square. Old prints, bronzes 
and icons can sometimes be found and purchased for a few 
kopeks. 

Russian Money. The monetary unit is the ruble of ioo 
kopeks, worth $0,515. The list of Russian coins and paper notes, 
with their approximate value in dollars and cents, is given in 
the following table : 


Copp 

er Coins 

Silver 

Coins 

Gold Coins 

Bank 

Notes 

1 k. 

$0.00515 

5 k. 

$0.0257 

5 R. $2,575 

1 r. 

$ 0.515 

2 k. 

.01 

10 k. 

.051 

/i R. or 

3 r. 

1-545 

5 k- 

.0257 

15 k. 

•07/ 

l- Imperial 3.86 

5 r. 

2-575 



20 k. 

.103 

10 R. 5.15 

10 r. 

5-15 



25 k. 

.128 

15 R. or 

25 r. 

12.875 



50 k. 

.257 

1 Imperial 7.72 

50 r. 

25-75 



100 k. 

•SIS 


100 r. 

5 I -40 



i ruble 

.257 


500 r. 

257.50 



1 ruble 

015 





Tips . A gratuity in Russia is called “tea-money." Small tips 
are customary, a few kopeks being enough for most services. 

Cabs. Cabs are numerous and cheap in Russia. The retention 
of the services of the same cabman throughout a short stay in 
any city will prove a great convenience for shopping or sight- 
seeing. 

Cameras. Used cameras are admitted duty free, but per- 
mission to photograph must be had from police headquarters 
wherever the traveler happens to be. The best method of avoid- 
ing difficulty with the police is to become a member of the Rus- 
sian Photographic Society on payment of five rubles. The mem- 
bership card entitles the holder to photograph freely in Russia, 
except in the vicinity of fortifications, navy yards, railway bridges, 
and imperial domains. 

« 

Trans-Siberian Railway, Through a Land of Promise 

The journey by the Trans-Siberian Railway is most interest- 
ing. There are many important towns and cities along the line, 
and the traveler may now cross the vastness of northern Asia 
with every comfort. The tickets are issued in the form of coupon 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


41 


books and are good for three months. Passengers from western 
Europe with a through ticket for the Far East, or vice versa, 
are not required to procure special passes for the right to cross 
the frontier. 

Advance Reservations. On account of the great demand for 
accommodations on the Trans-Siberian trains and the limited 
number of berths, passengers will do well to secure reservations 
called “place cards,” and purchase all tickets in advance. From 
March i until July 15 accommodations on the trains west-bound 
from Vladivostok and Chang Chun, are reserved, as a rule, and 
tickets and reservations are sold two or three months before date 
of departure. The same condition prevails regarding east-bound 
trains from Moscow and St. Petersburg from August 1 until 
December 15. Space may sometimes be secured when other 
reservations have been cancelled. 

Train Equipment. The Siberian Express is the train de-luxe 
of the Trans-Siberian railway. On it passengers from St. Peters- 
burg and Moscow travel without changing cars as far as Irkutsk. 
At Irkutsk, the passenger continuing his journey takes the train 
of the International Sleeping Car Company. Each train is pro- 
vided with a restaurant car and first-class cuisine. The cost 
of a sleeping-car berth between St. Petersburg or Moscow and 
Vladivostok is about $35.00. The sleeping-cars are usually di- 
vided into compartments containing two berths, a table, chair, 
reading lamp, and ample hook and rack room for hand baggage. 
Toilet facilities are provided and on some of the trains there is a 
shower bath with hot and cold water in the baggage car. First- 
class carriages are painted blue, second-class are tan color. 

Baggage. Thirty-six pounds of baggage are carried free in the 
baggage car ; any excess weight must be paid for. All pieces 
should be registered at least fifteen minutes before train time. A 
small fee is charged for registration. 

Porters. If, when stopping at stations, the tourist wishes to 
stroll up and down the platform or visit the excellent buffets 
which can be found at almost every stopping place, he is advised 
to hire a porter to watch his hand baggage in the compartment. 
A few kopeks will more than suffice for this service, and the 
traveler will be rewarded for his generosity with smiling thanks. 

Beverages. Water should not be drunk unless boiled. Good 
milk may be secured at all railway stations in Russia. Almost 


42 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


every traveler carries his own tea-making equipment, and makes 
tea with hot water procured at the station. Vodka is the whisky 
of Russia. Kvass, a fermented, non-alcoholic drink, made from 
black bread, honey or berries, is a delicious novelty to the trav- 
eler. 

Places of Interest en Route. The chief points of interest after 
leaving St. Petersburg or Moscow are the Ural mountains, Che- 
liabinsk (the junction of the St. Petersburg and Moscow divi- 
sions), Omsk, with its old Cathedral, and the Taiga Forest, 
through which the train runs for two days. Irkutsk is a large 
and important city which astonishes the tourist because of its 
extent and the business activity in such an out-of-the-way corner 
of the earth. Lake Baikal can be seen in magnificent panorama 
from the train. Harbin is the important market center of the 
East, and is also the junction of the Vladivostok and Darien 
lines of railway. Vladivostok is a city with strong fortifications, 
fine harbor and large trade. At this point connections by steamer 
are made with Tsuruga, Nagasaki and Shanghai. At Darien 
connections are made with steamers to and from Mogi and Shim- 
onoseki, and the Japanese trains also connect with these lines. 

Russian Customs. In traveling eastward the hand baggage 
is examined at Pogranitchnaia, and the registered baggage at 
Vladivostok. When traveling in the opposite direction both hand 
baggage ancf trunks are examined at a station called Manchuria, 
a short distance from the boundary. 

Chinese Customs. Both hand baggage and trunks are exam- 
ined at the stations Manchuria and Pogranitchnaia on entering 
and on leaving Manchuria. 

A Trip Down the Amur, the Great Gateway to the 

Pacific 

Character of the Land. Since Russia has established her pro- 
tectorate over the territory known as Mongolia, the character of 
the country is rapidly changing. As the Siberian trader pene- 
trates southward, the Mongol Tatars are subtly becoming Rus- 
sianized. Settlers from Russia are here making homes for them- 
selves, and the Russian peasant is even intermarrying with the 
Chinese. So immense is the region and so diversified are its 
interests and possibilities that the section seen on a voyage down 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


43 


one of its rivers is only a beginning of a discovery of the inter- 
esting. 

Krasnoiarsk is a city of 19,000 inhabitants. It is the seat of 
the Government of the Province of Yenisseck, and is destined to 
he an important place. 

Supplies. In Siberia, the traveler using the river boats for 
transportation, in addition to the ordinary luggage needed for 
personal use, has to carry his bedding, towels, soap, tea, canned 
goods and crackers, with the necessary utensils for preparing 
food and heating water. It is not safe to depend entirely on the 
towns at which the boat may stop, for the stores may not be 
sufficiently stocked to supply the demand for food. Raincoats 
and umbrellas will enable the passenger to remain on deck even 
through inclement weather. 

Photography. Now that the country is being garrisoned so 
strongly by the Russians the traveler must use the greatest dis- 
cretion in photographing, as it is forbidden in the vicinity of 
fortifications. At Vladivostok the tourist can only obtain pic- 
tures from the windows of his hotel, and then only at the risks 
of the confiscation of his camera and of a heavy fine. 

Had roost ok. This is an interesting town begun in i860, and 
built on the sloping shores of the pretty bay which forms a part 
of the Japanese Sea. It has a cosmopolitan population of about 
50,000 inhabitants. The harbor is particularly fine and the port 
is accessible at all seasons of the year. Vladivostok is supplied 
with good hotel accommodations. The cuisine is excellent and 
electric lights and baths are to be found here, as well as every 
other equipment of a modern hotel. 


A Sojourn in Peking, the Capital of China 

Its Attractions. The vast country of China and its almost 
numberless population offer endless attractions to the tourist. 
The strange customs of the people, their homes and temples, the 
beautiful objects of art in the quaint stores, the people them- 
selves — all are supremely fascinating to the Occidental, even 
though he understands them but little. 

Peking . This city is not only the capital of China, but it 
is one of the great capitals of the world, and so absolutely unique 
that the traveler will consider it also one of the world’s great 


44 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


spectacles. It is a city of three parts, the Imperial Palace lying 
within the confines of the Forbidden City, which in itself is sur- 
rounded by the Tatar City, and, outside of all, the Chinese City. 
The Temple of Heaven, the Confucian Temple, the Yellow Tem- 
ple, Lama Temple, Observatory, Examination Hall and many 
palaces offer much to see that is worthy. The Great Wall of 
China will be seen in the best state of preservation at Nankow 
Pass, about two days journey from Peking. 

Hotels. The hotels of the Orient under European manage- 
ment excel the hotels of Europe. The Chinese service is ideal 
and the slightest want of the traveler is anticipated. A servant 
is always in attendance. 

Guides. It is best to secure from the hotel or a reliable agency 
the services of a licensed guide. This man will not only know 
where to take the tourist sightseeing, but will know the best shops 
and act as interpreter and protector. These men are so faithful, 
so untiring, so eager to please, that the traveler adds with pleasure 
the “cumsha” or tip, to the small sum charged for all this devo- 
tion. About three dollars a day Mexican, or one and a half dol- 
lars gold, is the usual fee. 

Currency. The currency of the different sections of China 
is not uniform and the coins of one province are not always ac- 
cepted in another. The coast cities and the large cities of the 
interior use the Mexican dollar as the monetary standard and 
an article is priced at so much “Mex” (Mexican) or so much 
“gold.” Mexican and British colonial silver dollars are imported 
in large numbers. At the hotels and the large shops in China, 
American and English gold and travelers' checks are accepted. 
The gold is always at a premium, which fluctuates daily. The 
traveler is advised to have always with him a quantity of small 
Chinese coins to use for inevitable “cum sha." “Chin-chin cum- 
sha” is the first Chinese the traveler hears and it comes from the 
lips of every beggar in China — “Greeting, a gift !” 

Shopping. It is customary to “bargain” in China. When 
the price of an article is named the shopper asks “Mex?” The 
merchant answers “Mex” or “gold” as it happens to be, and the 
price asked is generally two or three times the sum he will finally 
accept. A great deal of dramatic ability is often exhibited in 
the “bargaining.” The traveler shows indifference for the object 
he longs to possess ; the merchant scorns the price offered ; the 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


45 


traveler is obdurate and perhaps leaves the shop, taking care to 
linger outside ; the merchant relents and names a lower price ; 
the traveler re-enters to say he will not pay so much ; and after 
a while the agreement is made, the traveler leaves with the coveted 
object, triumphant over securing at so small a cost such a beauti- 
ful treasure. The merchant rejoices at having made perhaps two 
hundred per cent on the sale. 

The Forbidden City, or a Visit to the Home of “The 

Son of Heaven” 

A Sacred Place. Now that the mysterious enclosure which 
was the heart of Peking has been laid open to the gaze of the 
world, it is with something of awe and involuntary reverence 
that the- traveler enters the once sacred and forbidden place. 
Much of the grandeur has passed with the vandalism of the un- 
thinking soldier and many treasures have been lost to the world, 
but there still remains enough to delight and amaze the traveler 
who sees China for the first time. 

Entrance Fees. A small fee should be given the “gateman” 
who admits the tourist and his guide into any tomb, temple or 
house. In the temples it is customary to place a coin in the “con- 
tribution box” of the priests. This is only a matter of courtesy. 

Vehicles. The sedan chair and the jinrikisha are the means 
of transportation about the city most used by the traveler. The 
jinrikisha is a two-wheeled cart which is drawn by a coolie. The 
sedan chair is what its name implies, a chair swung between two 
poles which rest on the shoulders of the two coolies who carry 
it. There is usually ^ little canopy over the chair. The fare for 
jinrikishas is about forty cents (Mexican) an hour, or twenty 
cents gold. The rate for sedan chairs is eighty cents Mexican 
or forty cents gold. When stopping at a tea house or restaurant 
it is customary to give the coolies who carry the sedan chairs or 

t 

draw the jinrikishas “tea-money” (the coolie term for a gratuity) 
or buy them some tan-san or ginger ale. These little courtesies, 
though expected, always give great pleasure. 

Clothing. Clothing such as worn in the temperate zone in 
a similar latitude is suitable in China. The visitor to China 
finds that it is not a nation of laundrymen ; yet clothes will be 


46 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


cleansed and cared for at very little expense. In warm weather 
linen and pongee suits, which are light and easily cleaned, are 
worn by both sexes. 

Beverages. It is not safe to drink the water of China. Drink 
bottled waters with English or American label or the Japanese 
bottled water “tan-san.” Ginger ale and lemon-squash are also 
popular in the Orient. 

An Excursion to Seoul, the Metropolis of the “Land 

of the Morning Calm” 

The Approach. Korea, or Cho-sen, as it is called by the 
natives, was the last of the Oriental nations to open its doors 
to the outside world. Since its occupation by the Japanese, raiL 
roads and steamship lines make Korea easily accessible. The cli- 
mate is usually delightful. 

Seoul. The capital of Korea is the center of a very ancient 
culture, now rapidly becoming Japanese. It is surrounded by a 
wall of stone, twenty feet high and 89,610 feet long. In this 
wall are eight large gates each surmounted by a two-story build- 
ing with wide projecting roofs. The Nan-daimon or “South 
Gate” and the To-daimon or “East Gate” are the finest. 

Hotels. The traveler can find comfortable accommodations 
and excellent service at the European hotels and Japanese inns 
of Seoul. 

Water. As in other Oriental countries, the water of Korea 
should be boiled before drinking. Bottled waters which are 
sealed, tan-san, and ginger ale are the beverages mostly used by 
the tourist in this “thirsty land.” 

Money. The money of Japan now current in Korea is the 
simplest of Oriental currencies for the traveler to comprehend. 
The monetary unit is the yen, of 100 sen. The yen equals fifty 
cents American ; the sen is equal to half a cent American. Eng- 
lish and American gold is accepted and is always at a premium. 
Travelers 1 checks are now taken at the hotels and large shops. 

Streets. Some of the streets of Seoul are broad and well 
paved, others are very narrow and Oriental in their turnings. 
The street leading up through the city from the south gate is 
the principal thoroughfare. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


47 


Trains. The modern electric street car has been accepted by 
this conservative people, so that now the traveler need not ride 
in the native vehicles unless through preference. 

Guides. It is best to secure a licensed guide who will arrange 
trips to the various places of interest. The compensation asked 
is very small, and a trifling sum is usually added as a gratuity 
by the tourist. 

Places of Interest. The traveler visiting Seoul should see 
the Marble Pagoda, the Rock Image of Buddha, the Tomb of 
Queen Chung, the Buddhist Temple, the Temple of the War God, 
and the Keum-Kyu, or old Imperial Palace. Independence Arch 
is also noteworthy. 

Hunting. The hunters of big game will find excellent sport 
in the tiger hunting to be had in the interior of the country. 
Smaller game abounds in the vicinity of Seoul. 

A Jaunt into the Interior of Japan, from Nikko to 

the Rapids of the Tenryugawa 

Yokohama. Yokohama, the great port of Tokyo, is located 
on the island of Nippon and is the great eastern port of Japan. 
At Yokohama the tourist will wish to explore some of the mar- 
velous shops, visit the “Tea-house of a Hundred Steps/' and 
plan a day's excursion to Kamakura and Enoshima, to visit the 
interesting temples and monasteries. At Kamakura is the won- 
derful Dai Butsu or great bronze image of Buddha. 

Nikko. From Yokohama or Tokyo the traveler finds Nikko 
easy of access. There is a common saying in Japan which freely 
translated means “Do not say ‘beautiful’ before you see Nikko.” 
The traveler, after he has seen this famous place, will concede 
that the word “beautiful" is inadequate. Here are the .burial 
places of the Shoguns of the Tokugawa line. In their sylvan 
setting, these temples of exquisite carvings and red lacquer, 
perfect in every detail in spite of the passing years, are the 
loveliest things in Japan. Here is the red lacquer bridge over 
which formerly none but the Shoguns passed. The Sanbutsudo 
is the hall of the Three Buddhas. Mangwanji is the principal 
temple. The most beautiful object is perhaps the Yomeimon, 
the “gate passing a day,” so called by the Japanese because 
visitors never tire of inspecting its marvelous workmanship even 


48 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


though it detain them a whole day. Other attractions in the 
neighborhood of Nikko will hold the traveler in the region as 
long as his time in Japan will allow. He should particularly 

notice the avenue of cryptomenia trees, unique in Japan. 

/ 

Transportation . The kuruma or jinrikisha is the ideal vehicle 
for a trip through Japan. The railways, which are excellent, 
can be used for the longer distances, but for the leisurely sight- 
seeing from place to place the kuruma, with the kurumaya to 
act as devoted servant, guide, and interpreter, as well as horse, 
is absolutely unrivaled. The kago or chair is used in moun- 
tainous districts. 

Money. The decimal system and a gold standard has been 
used in Japan since 1897. The monetary unit is the yen — 100 
sen — worth about' fifty cents. One sen equals ic rin. There are 
three copper coins, the 5 rin, 1 sen and 2 sen ; a 5-sen nickel 
piece, 10, 20, 50 and 100 sen or 1 yen, of silver, and 5, 10 and 
20 yen of gold. The Bank of Japan also issues paper money 
in denominations of 1, 5, 10 and 100 yen. For long journeys, 
it is best to carry the paper money. 

Clothing. About the same clothing is required for Japan as 
is used in the temperate zone of North America. Linen and 
pongee are worn by travelers in the summer time. Low shoes 
are more convenient than high ones, as in entering the immacu- 
late Japanese houses or inns it is customary to slip off the shoes 
at the door. This is not absolutely required, but is a courteous 
observance of the customs of the travelers' hosts, the Japanese, 
a race whose courtesy is world-famous. 

Visiting the Cities of Japan, from Tokyo to the 
Sacred Islands of the Inland Sea 

The Seasons. The best seasons to visit Japan are the spring 
and autumn. During the months of April and May the spring 
flowers are in bloom and the cherry blossoms cover the earth 
with a pink cloud. In October and November the gorgeous 
display of chrysanthemums and maples will delight the tourist. 
But in Japan every season has its flower festival. 

Passports. Foreigners can now enter Japan without pass- 
ports. The traveler stopping at any of the Japanese inns is 
required to register his name, nationality, age and profession. 


1 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


49 


Hotels. The coast cities of Japan have hotels as beautiful, 
as elegantly furnished, as convenient, and in many ways more 
comfortable than the hotels of other nations. The service is 
Japanese, but the cuisine is usually under the direction of a 
French chef. The Japanese inns of the interior are charming 
places, beautifully clean. Guests are excellently served by smil- 
ing, polite natives. The rates are very moderate. 

Tokyo. This city is the capital of the Empire. Here is the 
Imperial Palace, which the public may not enter. The traveler 
should visit the Yushukan or Museum of Arms, and the Yasu- 
kuni-Jinsha, a celebrated Shinto Temple. Shiba Park, ten min- 
utes' ride by ricksha from the center of the city, is the site of 
the great Buddhist Temple, Zojoji. Hihiya Park is the principal 
amusement park of the city. The Koyakan or Maple Club fur- 
nishes an excellent Japanese dinner or afternoon tea to the weary 
traveler and is one of the sights of the city. The Sengaku-ji, 
known as the “tombs of the fortv-seven Ronins," is well worth 

j * 

a visit. In the Uyeno Park are the Imperial Museums, the 
Zoological Gardens, the Fine Arts School, Academy of Music 
and Public Library. In this park is a little lake noted for its 
lotus flowers, and near by is the Imperial University. Here 
also in Tokyo is the famous school of Ju-jitsu; the Ikebana, 
where is taught “The Art of Arranging Flowers" ; and the 
Chano-yu, where instruction in the conducting of “The Cere- 
monial Tea Service" is given. 

Kyoto. This is the artistic center of Japan. The streets 

are clean and the plan of the city orderly and easily understood. 

Kyoto is noted for its fine porcelains, embroideries, silks and 

velvets, bronzes and metal work. There are here 878 Buddhist 

temples and eighty-two Shinto shrines. A number of tea houses 

and restaurants will be found in Maruyania Park. This place 

is celebrated for its cherry blossoms. From the Yasaka no to, 

the five- storied pagoda, there is to be had an excellent view of 

the citv. 

* 

Kobe , Osaka and Nagasaki are towns easily accessible by 
train or boat to the traveler. Nagasaki is a fortified town and 
has large ship-building yards, which the public cannot visit. The 
little fishing village of Mogi, five miles from Nagasaki across 
the mountain, is a charming place to visit and a popular summer 
resort. 


50 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


Shops. The tortoise shell of Japan is famous the world over 
and much desired by tourists. Purchases should be carefully 
made at the shops known for the quality and workmanship of 
their wares, as inferior goods and clever imitations are widely 
offered for sale. A beautiful product, of gun metal, inlaid with 
gold and silver, rivals the old Toledo work of Spain and is called 
Damascene work. Porcelains, silks, lacquer work, beads and 
toys bewilder the traveler with their exquisite beauty or grotesque 
charm. 

Photography. Cameras and sketch books are prohibited in 
all parts of Japan within six and a half miles of any fortifica- 
tion. The rules are very strictly enforced and a smiling officer 
will politely take the camera suspected of containing forbidden 
views and expose the film to the light, thus making sure that no 
photograph will result. Cameras are used in the interior by spe- 
cial permission from the police. 


Touring the Hawaiian Islands, the Paradise of the 

Pacific 

Charm. To the traveler who has once experienced the de- 
lights of a trip to these “happy isles“ there is ever the desire to 
return. Those who stay longest love it best. Hawaii is the 
largest island of the group, having nearly two-thirds of the 
total area. Upon its rugged breast stand the two great volcanic 
mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. From the sides of the 
latter burst the fires of Kilauea, the largest active volcano in 
the world. Kilauea is a pit crater, not a cone, and its rent is a 
hole in the ground. The Volcano House stands at the very 
edge of the outer pit, which is 500 feet deep and eight or nine 
miles in circumference. The native name for the crater is 
Hale maumau— “House of Fire.” 

Honolulu. This city on the island of Oahu, with a popula- 
tion of over 53.000, is the port through which the traveler enters 
Hawaiian territory. It is a delightful city with environs of 
singular charm. The lavish foliage of the tropics is here found, 
for the setting of Honolulu is in the semi-tropical surroundings 
of a land where “it is always afternoon.” The people are noted 
for their courtesies and hospitalities, which multiply in geomet- 
rical progression the longer one stays. The National Palace, 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


51 


Government Buildings and old mission landmarks are open to 
visitors. The harbor of Honolulu, with its many ships from 
foreign lands, is a scene of never-ending interest. 

Hotels . The hotel accommodations are excellent. Small cot- 
tages throughout the city of Honolulu may be rented for a very 
moderate sum if the traveler intends to stay for an extended 
period. The “guest homes” are furnished comfortably and 
meals are taken at the “large house” to which the smaller “guest 
homes'’ belong. 

Local Transportation. Electric railways traverse Honolulu 
and extend to the suburbs. Automobiles are available for long 
drives, and taxi-cabs and carriages meet all steamers and island 
trains. 

Places of Interest. The traveler will enjoy an auto ride to 
the “Punch Bowl,” the crater of an extinct volcano, a few miles 
northeast of Honolulu. The Country Club lies north of the city, 
and is reached by an excellent road passing the Royal Mausoleum. 
Another excursion is to Pearl Harbor, nine miles by rail, through 
rice fields, cane fields and banana plantations, to the beautiful 
harbor where the traveler will find a charming seaside resort. 

W aikiki. This suburb is easily and quickly reached either 
by electric train or automobile. Here the characteristic surf- 
bathing of the natives may be seen at almost any time. The way 
to this beach of Honolulu fashion is lined with beautiful villas, 
each with its boat- and bath-house facing the water. The return 
journey may be made via Beretama Street and the grounds of 
Oahu College. Here, if the season be right, an evening visit 
will afford one of the unique sights of the world, a hedge of 
night-blooming cereus, with thousands of fragrant blossoms, 
extending for hundreds of yards. 

Railways. The railway lines of the Hawaiian Islands are 
necessarily short and do not penetrate far into the interiors. The 
railways connect the most important cities on the coast. 

Inter-island Steamers. The excellent service of these inter- 
island steamers makes it possible for the traveler to reach any 
one of- the islands without difficulty, and each has its attraction. 
On Maui is the crater of Haleakala, the largest extinct volcano 
in the world, a marvelous example of the cooled walls and fire- 
boxes of nature’s greatest blast furnace. Among the islands 


52 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


one may also visit the coffee, sugar and pineapple plantations for 
which these isles are famous. 

A Trip to the Edge of China 

Hongkong. Arriving at Hongkong the landing is made by 
tender from the ship to Blake's Pier. The hotels have private 
launches for landing and embarking passengers and their bag- 
gage. As Hongkong is a free port, there are no customs formali- 
ties, and the traveler can choose his hotel and speedily be “at 
home." The island of Hongkong is about ten miles long and 
averages three and a half miles wide, with a deeply indented 
southern coast line. On the north shore is the citv of Victoria, 
fronting one of the finest harbors in the world. Back of the 
city rises the “Peak," a mountain about 2,000 feet in height, 
upon which are built the summer homes and hotels of the island. 
The city has a population of about 350,000 people, among whom 
all races are represented. The Chinese predominate — a courte- 
ous, energetic people. Their quiet, respectful demeanor, their 
courteous attention and civility are in sharp contrast to the con- 
duct of some of the representatives of the Western nations. 

Hotels. Excellent hotels are found at Hongkong, and the 
tourist will find this a most delightful city in which to spend 
the winter season. 

\ 

Local Transportation. In going about the city or in trips 
to the suburbs, sedan chairs and jinrikishas are used. All jin- 
rikishas and sedan chairs are numbered, showing that they have 
received the official license. As the government controls the 
licensing and the charges, the rates are very reasonable. The 
Kowloon ferry makes frequent trips to the mainland of China, 
and for trips around the harbor the native boats called sampans 
are convenient. 

Shops. On Queens Road one finds the fascinating shops, 
where the finest silks and embroideries may be purchased. There 
are no workmen in all the world to equal the painstaking Chinese, 
and the products of their skill are unexcelled. Here at Victoria, 
all the wares of China, Japan and India are displayed in the 
arcade shops, with novelties in bamboo, teakwood, ivory, porce- 
lain and lacquer. Men of all races and religions mix in the 
streets and add to the bewildering scene. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


53 


Places of Interest. The Botanical Gardens, Bowen Road, 
the great reservoirs at Wong-nei-chong Gap and Tytam, the 
Happy Valley, the Pavilion on the Peak and the lovely “Flower 
Market" are all attractive to the traveler. The Ko Shing The- 
ater is in the Chinese section (West Point). Some of the finest 
Chinese actors are here to be seen. Shau-ki-wan and Tai Koo, 
beyond Causeway Bay, can be easily reached by tram ride. A 
visit to the preserved ginger-root factories at Yam-a-ti is an 
interesting assurance of the perfect cleanliness of this famous 
product of China. 

Canton. Canton is about ninety miles from Hongkong, and 
is a night's ride by steamer or about five hours’ ride by rail from 
that point. The water life of Canton is one of its most peculiar 
features, as thousands of boats floating on the rivers and creeks 
provide homes for countless multitudes. To see the Canton of 
the Cantonese, it is necessary to have a guide, who comes well 
recommended by a hotel or reliable tourist agency, and the price 
of his services definitely agreed upon. Canton is the metropolis 
of China, with a population variously estimated from four to 
eight million. The streets are seldom more than eight feet wide 
and so constructed that they get the breeze and at the same time 
shut out the direct rays of the sun. The water of Canton is 
unsafe for drinking purposes. Tourists may find it advisable 
to drink the bottled waters, tan-san, or ginger ale. 

Places of Interest. The kingfisher feather workshops, rice- 
paper picture painters, the Temple of Five Hundred Genii, the 
embroidery shops, the Temples, the Taoist Monastery, the City 
of the Dead, Flower Pagoda, the Gate of Virtue, and the Street 
of Carved Ivories and Street of Jade Stones will prove of great 
interest to the tourist. Also the famous Water-clock, which has 
kept the time of Canton for over a thousand years. 

Money. English gold at a premium is accepted in Canton. 
Hongkong money is not taken. Canton money should be ex- 
changed before returning to Hongkong. 

Shanghai. Three days by steamship from Hongkong is the 
interesting city of Shanghai. The foreign settlement is thor- 
oughly distinct from the native town, and is practically European 
in its architecture and manner of life. Here are the famous 
Mandarin Gardens and the Tea House pictured on the blue china 
plates of our great-grandmothers. The hotels are excellent. 


54 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


First-class river steamers ply between Shanghai and Hankau, the 
greatest tea port, touching at many cities, and traversing the tea- 
growing section. If the traveler has the time, a visit to the tea- 
fields will amply repay him. 

A Visit to Manila, the Capital of the Tropical Far 

East 

Attractiveness. Within the last few years travelers have 
begun to appreciate the fact that the Philippine Islands have 
wonderful charm of scenery, immense natural wealth, and are 
not only beautiful to look upon hut offer a profitable field for 
investment. 

Manila. The chief city of the islands in point of size and 
the port at which the traveler will enter, is the capital, Manila. 
At the entrance to the harbor stands one of the strongest forti- 
fied places in the world, Corregidor ; behind the breakwater lies 
the magnificent harbor, where the depth of water, over thirty 
feet, permits the largest steamers to land directly at the wharves. 
To the south is the Old or Walled City, while the new commercial 
section is on the north bank of the Pasig. 

Customs. Dutiable articles, such as tobacco, spirits and 
curios, may be stored at the wharves at slight cost until the 
traveler is ready to depart ; firearms are prohibited. 

Water. Since the American occupation, sanitary conditions 
are so improved that the water supply is adequate and perfectly 
safe for drinking purposes. 

Climate. The sun is warm in the middle of the day, the 
nights cool and frequently necessitate blankets. This is in the 
lowlands, but as one attains greater elevations the nights grow 
colder, until at the high levels of the Benguet range, ice often 
forms in the streams. 

Places of Interest. The “intra muros” or old walled city of 
the Spaniards has five gateways, and is less than two miles in 
circumference. The old churches of Manila are of more than 
passing interest. The Augustinian on Calle Palacio is the oldest, 
as it was begun in 1599. In Calle Arzobispo is the Jesuit church 
of St. Ignatius, noted for its remarkable wood carving. The 
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, facing the Plaza Mc- 
Kinley, is of Roman Byzantine architecture. Several other 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


55 


churches of interest are within walking distance of the Plaza 
McKinley. 

Drives . Manila should be the Mecca of the motorist because 
of its beautiful roads. A drive of especial delight and interest 
is that along the Luneta to the band concert about five in the 
afternoon. Almost equally pleasing are the drives to Santa Ana, 
returning by Calle Nozaleda, and to San Juan Bridge, returning 
by way of San Miguel. 

Meteorological Observatory. One of the most famous ob- 
servatories in the world, this station is conducted by the Jesuit 
Fathers, whose long experience in tracking out the course of a 
typhoon has proved of untold service. Information as to when 
visitors are allowed to visit the observatory may be obtained at 
the hotel. 

Bilibid. The great reformatory prison in Manila is the 
largest as well as one of the most remarkable prisons in the 
world. It is located just outside the city. 

Shopping. There are hats, embroideries, laces, “pina” and 
• “jusi” cloth and innumerable curios to delight the traveler in 
search of souvenirs. Shopping is done in the Escolta. This 
street is reached by the Bridge of Spain or the Santa Cruz 
Bridge. Shopping and sight seeing in Manila should be done in 
the early morning, certainly before eleven o'clock, as business is 
practically suspended during the heat of the day. In the last 
few years most of the shop-keepers have learned to speak 
English. 

Motoring. The roads built by the Americans in the Philip- 
pines are equaled only by the roads of France. Long automo- 
bile rides are the delight of the traveler, and several garages 
have good machines for hire. A visit to Baguio, the summer 
capital of the Philippines, is of the greatest interest, as it takes 
the tourist into the interior of the island of Luzon, some distance 
above the sea level. 

Touring the Yellowstone National Park, the Won- 
derland of America 

Entrances. Modern transportation has made the Yellowstone 
and its marvels easily accessible. The railroad entrances to the 
park are on the north and the west. Gardiner, Montana, is the 


56 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


northern gateway and Yellowstone, Montana, the western. 
Camping parties often come into the park through Cody, Wyo- 
ming, on the east, and Jackson, Wyoming, on the south. 

Superintendent. The commanding officer at Fort Yellow- 
stone is acting superintendent of the reservation. Ail rules and 
regulations are made by the Department of the Interior, and 
printed copies of these rules will be found posted in all the hotels 
and camps in the Park. 

Government Supervision. Two companies of United States 
cavalry are stationed at Fort Yellowstone. During the season 
detachments of these troops are placed in different parts of the 
reservation. They patrol the Park, guard against forest fires 
and prevent acts of vandalism. They have authority to arrest 
anyone violating the Park regulations. 

Park Transportation. The tour of the Yellowstone is made 
in stage coaches or surreys, and the transportation facilities 
found here are a unique feature of the trip. The government 
has constructed a system of macadamized roads of easy grade 
throughout the Park, and these are kept sprinkled daily during 
the season. No railroads, electric lines, or automobiles are 
allowed to enter the reservation set apart by the government for 
the preservation of natural phenomena. 

Through the Park. Travelers through this Wonderland have 
the choice of stopping at fine hotels, or at permanent or movable 
camps. On either the hotel trip or camping trip, saddle-horses 
are obtainable at established rates. The scheduled trip is five 
and a half days, but there are numerous points of interest to 
detain the visitor who can spare the time, and stop-over arrange- 
ments may be made with the transportation agent at the respect- 
ive stopping points. Numerous tourists organize parties, with 
their own or chartered outfits and stop whenever and wherever 
they desire. Licenses are granted to firms and individuals to 
conduct camping parties, and full information about such guides 
may be obtained from the park superintendent at Mammoth 
Hot Springs. 

Baggage. When the tour of the Park is made by stage- 
coach a limit of twenty-five pounds is put upon the baggage 
carried for each individual. Trunks are not transported through 
the Park, but are stored free of charge at either Gardiner or 
Yellowstone. There are no photographic restrictions. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


57 


Clothing. Warm clothing should be worn, and one should 
be prepared for sudden changes of weather and altitude. Good 
everyday clothes, golf and bicycle suits are suitable for both men 
and women for park traveling. Linen dusters and overcoats 
may be hired at either entrance and at reasonable prices for the 
trip through the Park. Wraps should he kept at hand, and 
easy, thick-soled shoes worn, as at Mammoth Hot Springs and 
among the geysers tiny streams of warm water may be encoun- 
tered. Tinted glasses and serviceable gloves should certainly 
be a part of one's outfit, and a pair of field or opera glasses will 
be found useful. 

Hunting. As hunting is forbidden, any firearms carried by 
tourists are officially sealed at the Park entrance. Severe penal- 
ties are imposed if the seal is broken within the limits of the 
Park. All weapons may be left without charge in the care of 
the officers at the various entrances to the Park. 

An Excursion to the Grand Canon of Arizona, the 

Acme of Sublimity 

The Approach. The traveler usually enters the Grand Canon 
from Williams, Arizona, the ride by rail being of three hours' 
duration. There is also a first-class wagon road from Flagstaff 
to the Grand Canon at Grand View, a distance of seventy-five 
miles. This road is open for travel in spring, summer and fall, 
and the trip takes two days each way by wagon. Supplies, camp 
outfits and teams are procurable in Flagstaff. 

Hotels. There are now two hotels in the vicinity of the 
Grand Canon, at the head of two of the principal trails, that offer 
every comfort to the tourist. The water used for all purposes 
is hauled by rail from Del Rio Springs, over ioo miles distant. 
A cozy lodging in cabin or tent may be had at camps adjoining 
these hotels by anyone who prefers the simpler accommodations. 

Transportation. Horses and carriages may be hired at very 
reasonable rates for drives along the rim of the Canon; trail 
animals and guides are furnished for trips down the trails. 
Horseback riding is a favorite pastime. 

Clothing. If the tourist intends to do much tramping, stout, 
thick shoes should be provided. Ladies will find that short 
walking skirts are preferable for the horseback journey down 


58 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


the zigzag trail. Traveling caps and (in summer) broad- 
brimmed straw hats and linen dusters are useful adjuncts. 
Otherwise ordinary clothing will suffice. A field glass should 
be brought along. Divided skirts and straw hats may be rented 
at the hotel. 

Camping Trips. Camping trips with pack and saddle ani- 
mals, or with wagon and saddle animals, are organized, com- 
pletely equipped and placed in charge of experienced guides. 
On account of weather conditions, camping trips from October 
to April should be planned for points in the Canon, and from 
April to October they may be planned for both in the Canon 
and on the rim. Rates vary with the different outings, and 
arrangements for the trips are made at the Canon hotels, 
Williams or Flagstaff. 

Drives. Regular trip drives may be planned, the most inter- 
esting being to Mohave Point, Hopi Point, Hermit Rim Road, 
Yavapai and Grandeur Points, Grand View, Bright Angel Point 
and Dripping Springs. Rates vary according to the trip. 

Trails. The four easiest descents of the south wall of the 
Canon near the granite gorge are : the Grand View Trail, the 
Bright Angel Trail, the Hermit Trail and Boucher Trail, at 
Hermit Basin, and the Bass Trail. Amongst other trails out- 
side of the district named are Lee's Ferry Trail, Hopi Indian 
Trail and Diamond Creek Road. At each point the Canon pre- 
sents a different outlook, and each scene vies with the other in 
indescribable grandeur. Horseback trips over any of the trails 
into the Canon are permitted only in the company of a guide. 
This rule is merely a matter of precaution. 


A Visit to Moki Land, the Home of the Cliff Dwellers 

of Arizona 

To Moki Land. An interesting trip to the "mesas" or table- 
lands upon which the cities of the Hopis are built, can be made 
by leaving the railroad at Gallup, New Mexico, and driving a 
distance of one hundred miles across the intervening desert and 
mountains. Automobiles at a rate of about $10.00 per day can 
be hired to take the traveler very comfortably on his way to the 
distant pueblos. Stops may be made at the Mission of St. 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


59 


Michaels and at Ganado. Ganado is an interesting trading post, 
where the traveler may stop for the night. 

Winslow, Arizona, is another gateway into this country. 
From this town it is seventy miles — a two-days’ trip — across the 
desert to the first “mesa." A wagon or automobile can be hired 
at Winslow from a liveryman, who will also provide a camping 
outfit. 

The Painted Desert. The trip from Winslow to the pueblos 
is made through the famous Painted Desert of Arizona, and will 
long be remembered as an event in the life of the traveler. In 
this region, also, though at a distance of some miles from the 
road, lie the Petrified Forests of Arizona, the Aztec Ruins and 
the Indian Hieroglyphics which still puzzle scientists. The vil- 
lages or pueblos on the mesa in this excursion are Oraibi and 
Walpi. These are generally visited by travelers. 

History. In 1540 Francisco Vasquez Coronado, accompanied 
by several hundred soldiers, invaded this region in search of the 
mythical seven cities of Cibola. Coronado and his men did not 
find the golden cities of their quest, but they did discover and 
conquer the province of Tusayan, now known as Hopi Land or 
Mold Land. 

Hopi Houses. The Hopi houses are made of adobe, with flat 
roofs, from which entrance is made to the rooms below. The 
roofs are reached by means of ladders, which can be drawn up, 
making the house then inaccessible to anyone from the street. 
The houses are placed in clusters high up on the plateau 
above the surrounding plain, thus giving the name “cliff-dwellers" 
to their inhabitants. The rooms are little and low, as the Hopi 
Indian is of small stature. The floors and walls are clean and 
the rooms orderly. 

Dances. Every month has its own particular festival at 
which characteristic dances are given. They have different sig- 
nificances — some are an invocation for rain, others for a boun- 
tiful harvest, still another for a general thanksgiving, etc. All 
are picturesque and interesting. 

Oraibi. The largest and most important of the pueblos is 
Oraibi. Here, in August of every alternate year, is held the 
great religious demonstration known as the “Snake Dance." 
Oraibi is picturesquely situated on a high, rocky plateau or mesa. 
Its inhabitants have managed to retain the manners and customs 


60 


TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 


of their ancestors of centuries past, and also much of their inde- 
pendence. A stay of several weeks among this interesting people 
presents many fascinating features. Artists and students of the 
tribal customs and ceremonies of the American Indian are often 
in residence here. Indian houses, clean and comfortable, may 
always be rented for any length of time desired. 








WHAT THE WORLD THINKS OF THE 

TRAVELOGUES 

I take very great pleasure in recommending the Burton Holmes 
Travelogues to all lovers of good literature. 

Bishop Samuel Fallows, Chicago. 

One travels along most comfortably from page to page, stopping now 
and then to admire this or that picture. The incidents present themselves 
as they do to the real travelers, and the real illusion of travel is very 
complete. F. W. True, 

Head Curator, National Museum, Washington, D. C. 

The Burton Holmes Travelogues give one all the varied pleasure of 
foreign travel, minus the annoyances. He shows us in every far-away 
country the very things we should want to see if we could pick up and 
make the journey. George Ade. 

The Travelogues by Burton Holmes are without question the greatest 
work of travel in existence. They cover the entire world both by pen and 
picture. The author possesses a power and charm of description possessed 
by no other writer of modern times. F. M. Acton, 

Probate Judge, Lancaster, Fairfield County, Ohio. 

A man who ranks today as not only one of the most successful travel- 
ers, but as one who has the ability to tell others what he sees. 

Edward Iv. Bok, Editor of Ladies' Home Journal . 

We all owe Mr. Holmes a debt of gratitude for putting his splendid 
pictures and lectures in permanent form. 

Richard Henry Little, 

Writer and Journalist, Chicago. 

A casual glance is sufficient to show that the Burton Holmes Trav- 
elogues are elegantly gotten up and represent the highest example of 
printer’s art. I have heard many of his lectures and shall take great 
pleasure in refreshing my memory from the books. 

F. H. Rawson, 

President, Union Trust Company, Chicago. 

The mechanical work is beyond criticism and the illustrations are 
pointed and lifelike and give a realization of the original which cannot 
be had except by personal inspection. These volumes in themselves con- 
tain a liberal education and no one can well afford to be without them. 

H. St. George Tucker, 

Dean of the School of Law, George Washington University. 

The stay-at-home feels that with the Travelogues always at hand he 
has the best of the bargain, and so, in my opinion, will every owner of 
these beautifully printed, illustrated, and bound volumes. In them the 
world becomes an exposition and Mr. Holmes’ pen and camera the keys 
that unlock its wonders and spread them before our delighted vision. 

Chas. E. Pidgin, 

Author of Quincy Adams Sawyer. 

The books are a handsome addition to my library, but far better than 
their beauty, is their attractive and entertaining usefulness. The illustra- 
tions on every page are exquisite, and emphasize most artistically and clear, 
terse and discriminating description of strange lands and people. You 
deserve great praise for placing in our hands such an elegant encyclopaedia 
of travel at a price so reasonable. Henry C Pattengill, 

Editor and Proprietor, Moderator — Topics. 


\ 


For those who are unable to avail themselves of travel as a source of 
first-hand information, I know of no substitute so worth-while as the 
Burton Holmes Travelogues, where the interesting historic places are 
described so vividly that one enjoys the journey as thoroughly as if he had 
actually taken it. No library can afford to be without a work of this 
character. Anna C. Gilday, 

Director of History Course, Manual Training High School, 

Kansas City, Mo. 

The subject-matter is so well arranged and so superbly illustrated that 
it brings to the reader an enjoyment that is closely akin to that of real 
travel, and these books ought to be in all of the elementary schools of 
our city. W. M. Gregory, 

Department of Geography, Normal Training School, Cleveland, Ohio. 

If you cannot travel, let Burton Holmes do it for you. If you are con- 
templating traveling, then acquaint yourself with a set of his journeys, 
and if you have traveled, by all means enjoy again your trips in company 
with his incomparable Travelogues. O. W. Ruggles, 

General Passenger Agent, Michigan Central Railroad. 

To fully appreciate the Burton Holmes Travelogues, one must possess 
it, as this travel library is pre-eminently in a class by itself, simple, and of 
intense interest to everybody. My wife and daughter are delighted. We 
would not be without Travelogues for ten times the price. 

H. W. Femmer, 

Attorney & Counsellor-at-Law, St. Louis, Mo. 

1 find in the Burton Holmes Travelogues a reference library that 
comprehends the world. I cannot imagine a work on travel that will 
touch as many points as thoroughly and as simply as Mr. Burton Holmes 
has touched them in his superb travel library. 

Homer Bassford, 

Associate General Manager, The St. Louis Times, St. Louis, Mo. 

The increasing vogue of the Travelogues from year to year can only 
be accounted for on the ground of genuine merit. Mr. Holmes has demon- 
strated his fitness for the duty of delivering illustrated lectures. His quick 
and accurate appreciation of art and happy command of language, combine 
in an endowment that but few can boast. It is not strange, therefore, 
that he is succeeding . — Chicago Tribune. 

Mr. Holmes is an experienced and enthusiastic globe-trotter, a clever 
observer, a skilled artist, and as he has been almost everywhere his Trav- 
elogues are a vivid reflection of his personal experience . — New York Herald. 

It gives me much pleasure to say that not only has the New St. Louis 
•Star in its library the Burton Holmes Travelogues, but that they are con- 
sulted frequently and are of inestimable value. 

Also I have them in my home and enjoy them much. 

William B. Kenney, 

Editor, The New St. Louis Star, St. Louis, Mo. 

The Travelogues are one of the most valuable sets of books in our 
library. They are, we believe, consulted more often than any other work 
on travel here. We can recommend them as reliable and interesting to a 
high degree . — Lancaster (Ohio) Public Library. 

I recommend the Burton Holmes Travelogues to all who have a desire 
to get a real idea of the world abroad as well as the sights of our own 
country. J. Sherman Porter, 

Managing Editor, The Lexington (Kv.) Herald. 































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